Spirits of Adventure Iran Magazine (c)   

Iran  Country 51 – A brief Summary

After 13 weeks, three visa extensions and over 20,000 Kilometers touring this amazing country on our BMW motorcycles, we thought now would be the perfect time to share with the world our thoughts on the country of Iran. Iran is a wonderful, historical and a truly adventurous country to visit. Over the past 13 weeks we have spoken to many tourists visiting Iran from all over the world and all of them shared our sentiments and not one had anything negative to say about their experiences in Iran.



How do we compare Iran? Monika and I rate Iran in the top three countries in the world for “camping”. We rate the highways and off road riding experience in the top four countries in the world. We found the historical and adventure experience to be in the top two countries in the world. We found the tourist Guides at all the historical sites to be informative, professional and extremely enthusiastic.  The people of Iran who we have met are hospitable and generous people and exactly like the lonely planet said they would be.

Monika and I have certainly had one of the best experiences of our three years challenging the Guinness World Record in the country of Iran. If you enjoy Adventure riding on all terrain motorcycles then Iran should certainly be one of the first countries that you visit. 
If your interest is history, landscape, architecture or a unique and interesting culture then Iran should be one of your adventure destinations.




we are “Spirits of Adventure”, we are travelers and adventurers challenging two world records, and through our experiences we Endeavour to seek out the culture, history and cuisine from each and every country we visit. We look for the best in every person, location and country that we visit and we are delighted to share with the world all our positive experiences. With over a thousand days now accumulated riding our two BMW motorbikes around the world we can confidently say 99.99 percent of the world’s people are kind, generous, hospitable and friendly and never will we let the .01 percent from every country we visit, detract us from achieving our goals and nor should you.

New country , New culture and New Cuisine

You never forget the emotions of entering a new country. No mans land, passport stamps, Flickering Flag, Carnet de passage, Visa check, bike documents, uniform change, currency exchange, culture change, Welcome sign, your first meal, price of fuel, price of food, your first hand shake, the first greeting, the first smile, new friends, new cultures, new cuisine, its these experiences that makes riding BMW motorcycles around the world so incredibly exciting and invigorating. You never ever experience same day twice and now after 51 countries and over a thousand days on the road we have now ridden our two all terrain BMW GS motorcycles into the capital city of Iran, Tehran.

 The city is bustling, chaotic, traffic jams. Blasting horns, Sky scrapers and an endless supply of people, who want to stop us in our tracks, shake our hands, marvel at our bikes and enquire about our origin. After 96 hours in Iran our pockets now bulge with addresses, phone numbers and business cards. We have invitations already to almost every city in Iran which even includes a few days Jet Skiing off the Island of Kish in the Persian Sea and a few days hiking in the Alborz Mountains During our first lunch break in Iran we met two over Landers, Gerald from South Dakota USA and Peter from Germany. Gerald was on a one month adventure holiday visiting Asia and parts of the middle east and Peter was fulfilling a lifetimes dream by over landing from Düsseldorf Germany to India were he intends to purchase a Enfield motorcycle for 1500 euros and tour India for three months and then ride it back to Germany. Monika and I asked how they where enjoying their time in Iran? There reply was instant and unanimous – Fantastic, exciting and friendly. There response was of no surprise to Monika and I because their sentiments had been repeated time and time again by the over Landers we had met in Istanbul Turkey who had already sampled the Persian delights of this adventurous country. A French couple who had been motorcycling around the world for over a year rated Iran as their favorite countries in the world. I remember asking, what is the camping situation like in Iran? There reply was enthusiastic but rye; Camping is almost impossible because of the hospitality of the Iranian people, within five minutes of our tent being erected you would receive a dozens of invitations from curious onlookers to stay in somebody’s home or at the very least eat with their family. Their smiles confirmed what we already new that Monika and I are in for a fantastic time in the country of Iran.

We are currently in the capable and hospitable hands of BMW Tehran. Mr. Houshang has provided us with a wonderful apartment which looks over the city of Tehran and the Alborz Mountains to the North. Monika’s chain on the 650GS, which had all but perished after riding for just five weeks in the sub zero temperatures and deep snow of eastern Turkey needs to be replaced. BMW Tehran has offered us a complementary service on both bikes. We are having extra horns fitted in anticipation of our visit to India and Pakistan. Hammed the head technician riding a BMW 650GS has offered to tour with us for a few days and show us some of Iran’s most important historical sites including Ali Sadr Caves, the world famous Gombad –  Soltaniye mausoleum with one of the largest domes in the world and Alamut and Castle of Assassin. In the time that is left on our Iranian Visa and given the opportunity would like to extend it to five weeks, we intend to visit as many historical and sightseeing attractions in Iran as humanly possible. We look forward with excitement to visiting the museums, tea houses, bazaars and naturally to riding our BMWs through the mountains and across the desserts of this historical and adventurous country

Spirits of Adventure - Introducing Mr. Houshang, Tehran Iran-  Monika and I sip Nescafe in a small mountain side café.  We relax and feel protected from the harsh winter weather. We have ascended 2100 meters in the heavy snow. The small café is conveniently located at the first embarkation point on one of the longest cable car run in the world. Look south and you can make out through the smog and low grey clouds the city of Tehran. To our east sits majestically mountain Damavand with its summit barely visible at 5600 meters, and behind us starts the accent to Mount Tochel. Outside snowboarders, hikers and Skiers grind a path through the deep snow enroute the trails and ski runs that hugs the mountains skirt. From the outside enter two people, a gush of wind and snow blast in, disturbing the comfort of our heated room. Nature’s final act of defiance before it withdraws with the shutting of the door.

Mehran is dressed in a puffed mountain jacket, track suit bottoms and trainers I would say he is no more than 35 years old. The other wears heavy Sun Glasses, Black T shirt and cotton trousers. They can see we are not locals and approach with smiling faces. In English they enquire about our well being and ask if they can join us.

The man wearing just a T shirt stretches out his arm, looking for a hand shake and a responsive smile. Welcome to Tehran, they call me Mr. Houshang and it is a pleasure to meet you. The other sits still and observes quietly. Beautiful don’t you think gesturing to the outside and the mountain scenery, who could disagree. Mr. Houshang is confident, assertive and exhorts life and energy. I come to the Alborz Mountains once a week to climb to the summit. It takes me four hours in winter and two and a half in the summer. I also like to climb Mountain Tochel this I do once a month as it offers more of a challenge. I have to be very careful as its steep face is more challenging and dangerous. Over the years I have lost many friends who have fallen victim to the unforgiving terrain. I love to hike, run and climb. The mountains are my life. He smiles then pauses before asking Monika and I would we like to join him for a hike up the mountain. Sure we replied our queue to zip up our fleeces and jackets and don our thick woolen hats.

We exit the small café, and the cold biting weather takes us in its grip. We try to keep pace with Mr. Houshang who by now was meters ahead and beckoning us to keep up. It’s so important he stressed to keep moving and to keep the blood flowing otherwise the cold will take affect. We eventually reached the choice of two trails, one a leisurely winding path that osculates to the summit and the other a vertical climb that runs parallel to the cable car. He stands at the divide and waits for our choice, but his posture and guise tells us his mind is mind up. We look straight up, and commence our non proffered route. Monika takes the lead and I then follow with Mr. Houshang takes the rear offering a reassuring safety net against a slip or a fall. We ascend 100 meters and stop for rest. 200 meters higher there is a small ledge where we can view the city of Tehran. He pushes us on, and 20 minutes later we sit with heavy lungs and observe the city’s Skyline.

Mr. Houshang takes the opportunity to present him self. We listen and watch as he stands tall dressed in a flimsy black t shirt on a small protruding ledge that sits conveniently on the southern face of the Alborz Mountains. “I awake at 3 am every morning, have a coffee and commence a simple exercise routine. It is important I am warmed up prior to my Morning Run. I leave my apartment at 3.30 and set off on a 20 kilometer route. I run from my apartment in the city of Tehran to the base of the Alborz Mountains and return before sunrise at about 6 am. I only stop to pick up coins that I find on the road. I have a large collection by now, which I store in old coffee jars at home. My diet is simple but healthy and I usually eat just one meal a day. A plate of fluffy rice and chicken is all that my body requires. I look forward to the weekends, which in Iran is Thursday and Friday.  this is when I return to the mountains and climb 3500 meters to the summit of Mount Tochel. Unless the weather is severe I achieve this all year round. Monika and I are curious to know what barometer scale Mr. Houshang uses to pronounce severe weather. It is obvious by his attire that he considers today something milder. Yet it is 3 degrees below freezing and a winter blizzard is throwing us around like rag dolls. He beckons us to our feet so we can admire the beautiful scenery. It is nearly afternoon and by now we are hungry. Sensing our discomfort at the worsening weather Mr. Houshang and his friend offers to buy Monika and me a traditional Iranian meal. 60 minutes later we are warm again and crossed legged on top of a large elevated table with fitted high back rests covered from top to bottom in Persian carpet.

We are about to eat a favorite and traditional Iranian meal called “Abgoosh”.  A waiter arrives and prepares for the Meal. He places a large piece of clear plastic on the deep red carpet piles and then distributes the soup bowls and large thick clay pots.. The pots are baking hot and filled to the brim with white beans, roast potatoes and chunks of lamb.  First we drain the soup from the clay pots to the soup bowls which you then place inside pieces of Nan bread. After the soup and bread has been devoured the remaining contents of the pots are emptied into the soup bowls and then you pummel hard using a “Goosht Goob” a heavy piece of rounded metal until the food is mashed. Occasionally you add white yogurt and olives. When the mixture is to your tasting, you then scoop it from the bowls into your mouth using pieces of Nan bread . Mr. Houshang continues talking about the merits of a healthy life style. It is so important to keep healthy and eat the correct foods. I have run a marathon every year since 1979 and I am looking for ward to this year’s event as much as ever. I asked him how he occupies his time when he is not preparing for Marathons, Climbing Mountains and running 20 kilometers a day. I have a new project which will keep me busy for the next few years. I have been given planning permission to build a five story house on a piece of land at the base of the Alborz Mountains. This I will build on my own and it should take three summers. This is where I want to retire. Mr. Houshang with due respect ,can I ask what year was you born? Mr. Houshang smiles, removes his sun glasses and says “1934!!". After dinner Mr. Houshang invited Monika and I to his apartment. He lives on the third floor of a seven story apartment block. His veranda looks south over the city of Tehran. The apartment has three bedrooms and all the rooms are painted cream. A large brown leather suite faces inwards towards a Sony television. In the apex of the dinning room sits a dusty “Ronisch Piano” and to its side stands a large white teachers board, it faces north looking into the kitchen and onto the picturesque mountains which glows a light red with the falling sun.

Mr. Houshang walks me to the white board and introduces me to some of his previous guests. The board is covered in pictures of over Landers and adventurers plus thank you letters from around the world. The majority of pictures feature Mr. Houshang and his guests on or near the summits of the surrounding mountains.  On the table are local press reports featuring him on Marathon runs and climbing expeditions. A quick glance at some of the letters reveals the way Mr. Houshang touches the heart of those that he meets. One such letter from Bob and Danielle from Canada reads. “A lot of people have entered our life since the beginning of our adventure, only a few will remain forever in our memory. Please be assured you are one of them. You have done a great deal for us during our time together. You are a remarkable host, a remarkable mountain climber, guide, teacher and wise man and on top of that a great cook. We have learnt so much from you and are grateful to have the chance to be in your company. Thank you for the memories. Bob and Danielle. Another letter from Jens – Germany reads “I was nearly freezing in my T Shirt and Koky shoes with the old man in front giving me a hard time to keep the pace. Amazing! Thanks again for a great time and wonderful memories. – Jens.

Mr. Houshang has been entertaining and hosting adventurers, travelers and climbers since 1999. He is a giving and loving man, who inspires all that he meets. He looks for the best in every given situation and seeks nothing in return. He is a gentleman and one of life’s ambassadors in the true sense of the word. Monika and I have met thousands of people during past three years but non have inspired or touched our hearts in a way like the incredible Mr. Houshang. (Mr. Houshang can be contacted at Nouriani Enterprises, BMW Iran, Tehran)

30 Jan 04 - Tehran Iran

The truth is, after visiting the museums, bazaars and galleries, there is not a great deal to do in the Capital City of Tehran. The only significant tourist attractions are Freedom Square located on the western part of the city and trips to the local parks where you can relax, people watch and drink ample cups of tea. At the weekends and during holiday breaks the majority of the locals occupy their leisure time by Skiing or Hiking in the nearby Alborz mountains.

We will leave Tehran in a couple of days, destination Qom, Abyazan, Persepolis and Shiraz. We will return to Tehran via Yazd to pick up our new visas. This first section of our record challenge tour in Iran will take in some truly historical sites and hopefully provide some wonderful photographic opportunities and most importantly knock another 3000 Kilometers of the World Record Challenge. The bikes have been serviced and returned to us. Hammed the head technician and his team of mechanics at BMW Tehran have done an exceptional job in preparing our bikes for the next few months of hard riding.

We also thank Mr. Nouriani the head of BMW Tehran for not only sponsoring us a service on both bikes but for being a friend as well. Mr. Nouriani has been helping and supporting BMW Riders and Over Landers for over 26 years. It is something he plays down as "Just doing his bit". He is an ex Iranian Karate Champion and has a love of motorbikes and mountaineering. He rides the Paris Dakar 650 for fun . Mr. Nouriani is proud that he has had three generations from three different families working in the BMW Enterprise. We are, in the true sense of the world, one happy family.

We continue to be on the receiving end of some incredible hospitality and the warmth, kindness and generosity of the people that we meet is nothing short of exceptional. Monika is drawing large crowds where ever she goes on her BMW F650GS. Like Saudi Arabia it is most unlikely that you will ever see a female riding motorcycle in Iran. The maximum cubic capacity of motorcycle in Iran is currently 200 and so when Monika and I pull up on R1150GS and F650GS the chances are the majority would have never seen anything like it before. It only takes a minute before we are completely surrounded by curios onlookers. Crowds of 20 people is not uncommon when we stop the bikes which brings its own problems as the mass gathering draws the attention of the police so within five minutes we are surrounded by crowds exceeding 40 people including half a dozen Policeman. To be fair, the police we have met so far have been kind, friendly and helpful. Most speak good English and wish us safe travels. Only yesterday Monika and I was invited by a traffic policeman called “Faras” to visit his family and home for dinner.

We have discovered another local cuisine, lightly burnt rice. The rice is prepared by laying it two centimeters deep in a frying pan and then cooked until slowly burnt. Occasionally seasoned spices are added and then it is served from the pan in small chunks with salad and a choice of meat. Another by product of Iranian hospitality is Cakes. Should you be lucky enough to be invited to somebody’ home which is happening now at least three times a day, then it is a custom that you take along a box of cakes. If you invite somebody to your home in Iran it is custom that you offer cakes. The cakes come in all shapes and sizes and are filled with cream, fruit and pastry. So you see, what ever hospitable situation presents its self in Iran, be prepared to slacken your belt, forget the calorie count ,and eat cakes, lots of them.

01 Feb 05 Tehran

We depart Tehran on the 01 Feb 01 and return late on the 05 Feb 05. We will quickly visit Qom, Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd before returning to Tehran. It is a 1400 mile route which will introduce us to the terrain and roads of Iran. After the 6th of Feb we will depart again for a thorough tour of Iran.

01 FEB 05 – TEHRAN TO ESFAHAN

Mr. Houshang braved the bitter cold morning to wave us off from his apartment car park to wave us off. Esfahan is the first leg of our 2500 Kilometer and five day mini tour of Iran. With our freshly made egg and tomatoes sandwiches safely packed away in our Jesse Panniers we said goodbye to Mr. Houshang and rode south across the center of Tehran to route nine, the main highway south. Normally it is against the law to ride motorbikes on the highways of Iran. This rule is in force to protect cars and truck drivers from the countries low powered motorbikes. Our bikes however do not meet the same criteria so we sort the advice of the local police to ask would it be ok to make an acceptation to the law for a couple of adventurers riding high performance BMWs. The police agreed it should not be a problem and in the interest of our own safety this indeed would be the best option.  The main interstate starts 15 kilometers south from the center of Tehran and its beginning is marked by huge newly constructed mosque that sits majestically to the east of the highway and pay booths that splits each lane north and south. After a little negotiating with the security staff who man the booths they eventually lifted the barriers and waved us on our way. Surprisingly the traffic was sparse compared to what we had encountered 10 minutes earlier in the morning rush hour of Tehran.  60 Kilometers south of Tehran we made our first gas stop. Outside the nearby food stalls giant metal Samovar kettles expended white steam into the cold morning air. Iranian music roared loudly from speakers that hung uncertainly from nearby electricity poles. Customers, who a few moments earlier were inside purchasing goods, were now outside observing our disembarkation. A couple of ladies dressed in black ankle length chadors gathered round Monika bike and curiously observed her  as she parked her bike and remove her helmet. As I ordered once sachet of Nescafe for myself and one teabag for Monika we was approached by two business men driving south to the city of Kashan., they enquired about our journey and wanted to know if they could be off assistance. Monika’s little dilemma a few moments earlier had already been rectified with the turning of her ignition key. She was unsure if her bike had been filled with petrol or diesel and when her bike fired into life a smile of relief told its own story. It turns out after a brief introduction that the business men make souvenirs for export around the world. Their main custom is the country of Canada where they export their number one product “White Plastic Trays” with the words “I love Canada:” engraved in bright red. They invited us to their homes in Kashan and promised during our visit they would have a similar trays manufactured with the words “I love England and I love Czech Republic”. We thanked them for the hospitality and agreed we would stay with them on our next visit.

We continued south for another 100 kilometers until we reached the city of Qom. Unfortunately on this occasion we did would not have the opportunity to explore Iran’s holiest city but we did manage enough time to devour the first of Monika’s six delicious egg and tomatoes sandwiches. Drivers from Iran’s vehicle recovery service who were parked close by in their bright yellow and blue trucks. When they saw us they exited their vehicles and came over for a chat. They asked if we needed anything and if we were enjoying Iran? We took a couple of souvenir pictures then got on our way.

 We said goodbye to the Alborz Mountains who took one final bow before finally peeling away from our rear view mirrors. We continued south into the vast and unforgiving space of the Iranian dessert. Wild camels grazing amongst the shrubs completely ignored us and our bikes as we roared on by. We still had 350 kilometers to ride until we reached our destination the city of Esfahan. Occasionally we would pass through small villages; they appeared empty and devoid of life. We reached a small town called Abyazan; it looked stunning in the afternoon sun. We could make out in the distance a light brown castle that sat tight against the rolling hills. Constructed from mud and stone it looked unchanged from centuries past. We both wanted to explore but time was pushing on.

One hundred kilometers from Esfahan we came upon a truck stop in the Zagros Mountains. Six or seven Lorries occupied the shingle car park. We picked our space in front of the entrance and were greeted by the cafes occupants. They shook our hands and carried our helmets. We were led to a small tap that protruded from the earth and urged to wash our face and hands. Inside the staff usher us to the centre of the room to a table positioned near a burning stove. We shook hands with everybody and chi was delivered in a large thermal flask. The staff offered us chicken, rice or kebabs but we declined because we are full from our egg and tomato sandwiches. They asked where we where from and welcomed us to Iran. The drivers from the Lorries took it turns to offer us food from their plates.. We could see our motorbikes from the building window and they looked tiny parked next to giant haulage vehicles. The owner reassured us the bikes where safe and that we should relax and drink tea. We rested for twenty minutes before continuing our journey. We arrived in Esfahan before dark and searched out the first of the recommend accommodation. According to the lonely planet Esfahan is Iran number one tourist attraction, except today there are no tourists because it is out of season, it is indeed the perfect scenario. The Amir Kabir Hostel was adequate and conveniently located near to the Emam Khomeini square. The cost was eight dollars but they could not guarantee security for our bikes. We drove another kilometer south and booked into Sa’adi Hotel. Our room contains three single beds, a small TV and pictures of mountainous Persia stare at us from the walls. We stand on the north shore of Zayandeh River and marvel at our setting. The Si-o-Se Bridge is magnificent in design and splendid in completion. It has 30 archways which spans the flowing water. In what seems like an instant we are surrounded by friendly locals. They offer us smiles and a warm welcome. 20 minutes later Monika and I ride one kilometer north, our destination Emam Khomeini Square We enter the square courtyard through a large stone arch way and before us stands one of the most amazing sites we have ever seen. The square is reportedly one of the largest in the world and we are spoilt for choice and don’t know which way to look. Every direction presents a unique and incredible view. In the centre of the square a large circular fountain shoots water high into the air. Surrounding the fountain horse drawn carriages wait in line for customers fare. Beautiful lawns and pathways meander outwards to the base of the surrounding arched walls. Small trees which mark the lawns perimeter stand on ceremony, and soaring into the darkening sky stands two mosques covered in ceramic tile which now change colors with the fading light.

02 Feb 05 – Esfahan to Shiraz (Monika)

OOur day started with beautiful sunshine and clear blue skies. We had a shower, packed our bikes and sipped tea before we departed Sa’adi Hotel. We rode directly to Si-o-Se Bridge, which greeted us in a soft color of morning sun.  We stopped and admired its elegance. We were both sorry to leave Esfahan so early. But we was happy in the knowledge that we would be back soon to see more of this beautiful city and it made our departure much easier. The distance from Esfahan to Shiraz is 500km. Once out of Esfahan the road split into a wide duel carriage way.  As we left without breakfast, we decided after 100 km, we would stop in a small town called Shahre Za. I asked Simon what does he fancy to eat? Jokingly he replied," fried eggs, sausage, bacon, baked beans, tomato and toast" and if they don't have that "Steak, Chips, Grilled Tomatoes and peas" and if they don't have that? Fish, chips and mushy peas" and if they don't have that? "kebab !" So we visited one of three shops with samovar in front.  We bought tea and the only food we could find something you could call with a lot of imagination a “muffin”.  Not a great breakfast for Simon, but he was satisfied. Between towns in Central Iran we experienced beautiful scenery and a dry landscape. Some times the ground would rise into impressive mountains covered in snow. One minute we could have been riding in Arizona the other Alaska, turn a bend and their was Mongolia. Every 30 kilometers revealed a new and wondrous landscape. The roads are fantastic and the traffic is light. Our next stop for just tea and muffin was a charming Old Persian village. There was an old part of the village, deserted and ruined, probably by earthquake.  The road took us around the cliff where on top we could see old houses made from mud bricks. it was now 1 pm when hungry Simon stopped in a busy little village full of trucks and garages. It was here where we finally found an eating place.  There was only one choice of food but we where more that satisfied with hot dog and salad baguette. The road to Shiraz was scenic; we even rode over a mountain pass, where the country side due to high altitude was covered in snow. The only discomfort we fell was the strong wind. On a few occasions it was so strong it almost blew me into oncoming traffic. We arrived at the city of Shiraz just before dark. The first impressive building we saw was Arge Karim Khan Citadel from the Zand period.  It has four round towers and the inside used to be a royal courtyard planned by Karim Khan. One of the number one places to visit in Shiraz is the Bazaar-e Vakil also built by Karim Khan. But we knew because our visit to Shiraz was a quick one there would be no time for bazaars, it will give me something to look forward to next time. Our number one priority was to find accommodation for the night.  Luckily we did not have to travel far from our citadel only 250m away, hidden in small side street we found Zand hotel, with its simple setup rooms and courtyard. The hostel provided secure parking for our motorbikes. By the time we parked, checked in and unpacked it was dark and our stomachs were yet again demanding food.  It was not difficult to locate a fast food place as Shiraz has many of them. By the time we devoured a medium sized pizza it was nearly 11pm so we retired early for the night.

 03 Feb 05 – Shiraz – Sirjan

 At 9 am we packed the bikes and searched out some ware to eat breakfast. We found a small Persian café next to the Iran Hotel. We climbed to the first floor and found a small room fitted out with bench chairs covered in Persian carpet and long tables. We bought two omelets and chi for only 5000 Rials, which is one dollar and great value. After breakfast we headed east and stopped on the outskirts of town to purchase fruit. We did not want to caught out again with a full days riding and no ware to purchase food. As soon we parked at the market we were surrounded. When Monika approached the food stall she was invited around the counter to help serve the customers. This she did with her helmet still on. The locals loved her. After ten minutes work she was given 10000 Rials, a bag of oranges and six apples. The staff offered Monika a large pineapple but we had noware to put it, so she declined their offer. We continued east, our next stop was the historical town of Kerman but when we arrived in the town of Sirjan some 100 Kilometers west of our intended destination it was almost dark so we decided not to move on any further. We found the town’s only accommodation called Hotel Surosh. It was well out of our budget range at 24 dollars but they did offer secure parking. The rooms where nice and clean the showers had hot water so we where contented. We looked around the shops and found a couple of shop keepers who spoke good English so we passed an hour away chatting about our travels and their culture. We had a omelet in the hotel before retiring for the night.

04 Feb 05 – Sirjan – Yazd

The next day we rode north to Yazd. Yadz is reportedly one of the oldest cities in the world. When we arrived to ask directions to the area where the budget hotels are located we where mobbed again by an inquisitive but friendly crowd. After 30 minutes chatting an escort of 10 small motorcycles showed us the way to our intended destination. After checking out a few of the hostels we decided we would stay at the only one which offered secure parking. This indeed was not the case as the hostel gates where left open all night so anyone could have had access to our bikes. As luck would have it nothing was stolen. In the evening we found a nearby café and shared a plate of rice and chicken. We had enough time to visit the cities number one attraction the 14^th century Jameh Mosque. When we got there the mosque was in complete darkness and the lights which normally illuminate the building were switched off. We asked a couple of guards why there was no illumination and they said jokingly the town is trying to save money why don’t point your motorbike lights at the Mosque-that should do it!?” Then the guard said “Would you like the lights switched on? “Yes please” we replied, and with a flick of a switch the giant spot lights came on to reveal the true splendor of this historical and beautiful building.

05 Feb 05 – Yadz – Tehran

The following day was an early start. We had 750 Kilometers to ride to our next destination Tehran. We grabbed a few tins of sardines from a local shop and when we spotted the first Tea house on the outskirts of town we bought some Nan bread and tea and made Sardine Sandwiches. The ride north was scenic and the roads once again excellent. We arrived on the outskirts of Tehran at roughly 5pm and it took a further hour to travel 6 kilometers because of the congested traffic. We traveled 2500 Kilometers in four days, and visited some of the most important and historical cities in Iran. The city of Esfahan is especially beautiful in both character and design. We thoroughly enjoyed all of them, and we now look forward to returning to discover more. The terrain at times is breathtaking in its beauty and the roads exceptionally good. All the people we met where helpful, courteous and friendly. So far we are more than delighted to be experiencing the Persian hospitality, culture and history of the country Iran.
 

Our entry into the city of Kashin hardly went unnoticed. Not for the first time since arriving in Iran, convoys of low powered motorcycles and their enthusiastic riders surrounded us then kept pace with our uncertain path. On the northern edge of the city we pulled over to ask directions to the major tourist attraction “Fin Gardens”. In a mater of seconds our bikes were completely surrounded by enthusiastic locals. Soldiers and Police armed only with smiles tried to keep order as the growing crowd spilled onto the cities access road. By now we were totally embarrassed by the unwanted attention our arrival had caused.

A young man through the crowd introduced him self to us as David. He told me in well spoken English he was a student of the nearby Engineering University and that he would be more than happy to show us around the main attractions. I gestured to David to get onto my bike and then we quickly departed the ever increasing madness for the piece and solitude of the cities number one tourist attraction. Fin Gardens situated on the south east of the city is a historical complex comprising of pools, natural springs, flowers and a splendid tea house. Fin Gardens has a peaceful ambience which continues to attract tourists from around the world. After touring the site and marveling at the architecture, fortress and creative water gardens we returned to the centre of town to visit a traditional and newly restored Persian residence that is situated within the old city walls. David told us the house was first constructed over 200 years ago by a wealthy manufacturer of Persian carpets. Four floors including a basement which lay 10 meters below the ground were beautifully designed. The outside walls displayed murals, depicting the same design you would see on carpets made in the Kashan area. Inside the house contained over 30 rooms again all highly decorated in ceramics and mirrored tiles. The doors and window frames are made from dark wood and once again contained elaborate Persian engravings. Upstairs to the rear of the house contained the servant’s quarters and kitchen area. In the centre of the house lays the courtyard comprising of shallow pools, fountains and octagonal shaped gardens.  The fountains and pools although beautiful to look at also provide a secondary function which is to cool down the hot desert air and reflect it outwards to the surrounding rooms.

 

We departed the newly restored Persian house and went in search of accommodation for the night. Lonely planet suggested Golestan Inn. To our relief the hotel manager said he had vacant rooms and we could park our bikes in the hotel storage area that came complete with a metal shutter door. The rooms where basic in appearance and contained no shower but at least the bikes where safe and protected by lock and key. After unpacking we went in search of a evening meal. Once again we followed the lonely Planet and visited the highly recommended Dellpazir Restaurant managed by an English Lady and her Iranian Husband. We located the restaurant and were greeted at the door by Ali the owner’s son. Ali was courteous, polite and enthusiastic and placed our weary bodies at the best table in the house. He did not even ask what we wanted from the menu he just reassured us we would not be disappointed and our hungry stomachs would be more than satisfied. Perplexed we went with the flow and five minutes later the first of nine plates of food arrived. One after another the plates came, each offering providing something different in taste and texture. Ali came over and asked was every thing alright. Once again embarrassed by the generous hospitality we reassured him we where more than content. Ali joined us for dinner and gave us an introduction to the city of Kashan. He spoke in a pronounced London accent and reassured us he was more than happy living in Iran. Ali now 21 years old left England when he was 18 years old and relocated to the city of Kashan. Later Allis farther and his friend, the ex mayor of Kashan joined us for dinner. The ex Mayor now a lecturer at the local engineering university welcomed us to his city and reassured us we would enjoy our stay.

Pictures from BMW World Record Challenge

BMW Tehran and Ski
Master Technician
BMW Mechanics
Elham and Naghmeh
Azita & Bahrene
Houshang and Monika
Houshang Monika and Miran
Iran Ladies
Police
Friends USA and Germany

ABAYONE VILLAGE
Abyone Home
Traditional house and clothes
Abyone Lady
New Friends
Abyone Graveyard
Abyone Corsi

ABAYONE VILLAGE
Traditional dress
Iranian Ladies
Iranian Ladies and Monika
Iranian Lady
Ceremony
Ceremony

Abyaneh is a lovely village lying in the mountain region 80km south from Kashan.  It is one of the oldest villages in Iran, very popular with tourist for its distinctive red color mud houses.  Local women instead of wearing black chador, dress in colorful head scarf’s and blouses and their skirts finish below the knee. After 22km from the main road, the narrow curvy tarmac track took us through scenic climb into the mountains and gorges of this wonderful terrain. Abyaneh perched at the bottom of a steep hill was about to be inundated not only by two over Landers riding two BMW motorcycles but also by many hundreds of Iranians returning to this small village to join in the remembrance ceremonies of Mohammad. Imam Hoseinie.

It’s a big ceremony for Shiite Muslims and it is a time when all the businesses and shops close down for 4 days.  From what we learned, each day brings different program (ritual).  We saw one large group parading up and down the small streets of Abyaneh. In the front of the parade a banner is carried horizontally, it is decorated in feathers, swords and pictures of Mohammad Imam Hoseinie is fixed in the centre. The banner weighs over 130kg and is carried by only one man. The parade marched through the twisting lanes of this small village. Music comprising of drums, trumpets and symbols was very loud and amplified through large speakers which where attached to poles that was carried by young boys positioned in the centre of the parade. Occasionally the parade would stop outside a house and a lone sheep would be sacrificed in the memory of their icon - Mohammad Imam Hoseinie.

Behind the banner a precession of men marches to the rhythmic beat. In their hands they carry small chains which is tethered too two wooden handles which they carry in each hand, and with each bang of the big drum they strike down on their backs with the chains. It is a remembrance ceremony which involves inflicting self pain.

After watching the precession, Simon and I continued exploring Abyaneh. Whilst taking a photograph, a man stopped us he was wearing traditional long wide black trousers.  In good English he introduced himself and invited us to his mother’s home for tea.  He worked in hospital in Tehran and returned to Abyane for the religious ceremony. This was not our first invite to somebody’s home in Iran because the Iranians are very hospitable people. An invitation to somebody’s home in Abyaneh would be most interesting as Abyane is a very important and cultural site in the country of Iran. Here traditions remain unchanged from century passed. We where taken to the lowest point of the village, we crossed a couple of streams that flowed through the twisting lanes. The houses are deep red in color a reflection of the clay that is unique to this area. Not one house is built the same and many contained giant wooden doors beautifully crafted and remain today as they did many hundreds of years ago.

We had to remove our shoes before entering the house a common tradition in Muslim countries. The main room was lined with Persian carpets. In the centre of the room we saw blankets and quilts suspended by a large table. Beneath the table a tray containing hot ambers of wood and coal was generating heat. We where invited to sit around the table and place our legs and arms beneath the quilts. It was only a matter of seconds before the cold chill that touched our bones was replaced by a soothing warm air. The mother and lady of the house brought us tea, cakes and sweets, she was extremely friendly. We spoke about her life and her culture and took a few souvenir pictures before departing to see the end of the ceremony.

Amongst the large crowds of tourists and locals we came across a Australian biker called Chris. He had been over landing for over three years and his next destination was Turkey. We shared a pot of tea at a nearby hotel and departed Abyane in search of accommodation for the night. In the small town of Natans we where befriended once again by curious locals who offered to put us up for the night. How could we refuse this was another opportunity to experience the Iranian culture and hospitality. We where taken to a house on the eastern side of Natans where are bikes where safely secured behind large wooden gates. Three generations of family had returned to the family home to take part in the town’s religious ceremony. We communicated as best we could and was served fruit and tea. The grand farther asked would we like to visit a “Hoseinie”. A Hoseinie is as large traditional mud and brick buildings often covered in canvas and the meeting place for many hundreds of Iranians during this period of remembrance. This invitation represented an honor as this ceremony is not only religious but very private. We where told the ceremony was an annual event and an opportunity for the Muslims to pay their respect to Imam Hoseinie. The “Hoseinie” is a large circular arena made from wood, stone, clay and mud. In the centre of the ceiling a large canvas roof decorated in Persian designs is suspended by large wooden poles that are positioned vertically in the centre of the arena. A large stage is positioned on one side of the arena and on it to its rear sit cross legged over hundred girls and ladies dressed in black chadors. On the side of the arena from which we entered is dedicated to the men who stand and sit patently awaiting the arrival of the precession. We are the only non Muslims in the arena and it felt like over a thousand pairs of eyes where staring and observing us. The local town’s people are as curious about us as we are about them.
 

Outside we could hear the approaching precession. The waiting crowed inside became excited and quietness fell. We felt tense and apprehensive unsure what was to come next. First into the arena came the banner followed by the men still striking their bodies with the metal chains. Behind the men came the women who quietly joined the other women who sat crossed legged inside the arena. The precession of men and music moved slowly into position in the centre of the arena. The large drum is all we can now hear and with each strike the men move from one leg to the other. The men without chains slap there chests to the beat and then throw them outwards in a matter of minutes all the men in the arena are doing like wise. Slowly but surely the sound increases. Iranian music is played through the arenas sound system and symbols crash together to the beat of the drum.  
 

A member of the family that was hosting us asked a cleric would it be ok for me to film inside the arena. To my amazement the cleric said yes. Being a non Muslim I had never experienced anything like this, but what a fantastic opportunity to record and capture such an important ceremony of the Iranian Shiite Muslims.

In the morning our hosts served us a traditional Iranian breakfast comprising of tea, fruit, yogurts and a sheep’s head. To this day I had never turned down the opportunity to sample local cuisine. To me the local cuisine of a country is an essential ingredient of experiencing their culture. During our travels we have ate horse testicles and sheep’s eyes but never sampled the head of a sheep. I was offered the first choice from the head, its eyes, its skin from the face or the sheep’s brains. I choose the brains and with my decision made the man of the house banged the top of the sheep’s head until all the brains emptied onto a plate. The brains where cooked and coloured white and had a texture like sandwich patty. The taste was salty and not entirely to my liking. Maybe the psychological effects of eating brains for breakfast had affected my taste buds.
 

Natans Village
Ceremony Hoseinie Hand
Ceremony Hoseinie on horse
Ceremony Hoseinie Gathering
Natan's Friends on the road
Natan's Hospitality
Natan's young Girl

Yazd City
Dome
Monika old town
Mosque
Gentleman
Mosque Prayer
Tea in the park

Yazd City
Yazd's Wind Towers
Mosque
Silk Road Hotel
Old town flags
Tea in the park

Yazd City
Yazd traditional design
Friends on the road
Silk Road Hotel
Cyclists from Austria
Mosque
Japan Tourist - Masa

Road to Garmeh
Chris, Paul and Spirits of Adventure
Destination Australia
Sunrise MSR
Sunrise Sony DV950
Camping Hoseynan
GS and Camels

Garmeh Village
Tiger from Ireland
Mayzer and his Didgeridoo
Ashanti Hotel evening meal
Camels and Monika
Chris Australia Climbing for Dates
Ashanti Hotel Garmeh
Simon Oasis
Simon Chris and Mazyar enjoy Hammid
Dinner is served at Ashanti Hotel Garmeh
 

Khor City Middle Iran - March 2005
Monika and Lady Making
Math's Teacher
Monika Carpets

MSER Village - March 2005
Sand Dunes  
Primary School
Local Boys
Village Girls
Onboard 650GS
Mesr Farmers

Mesr Village
Dunes and Camels
Mesr Hospitality
Pots and Pans
Persian Gates at Chakchak
Mesr School Teachers
Mesr Child
 

Esfahan City Iran
Swedish Enfield Riders
Esfahan Plates
Mosque       
Horse and Carriage
German Cyclists
Tourists and Bikers
 

Football - Iran v Japan 2:1
Iran Crowd
Scoreboard
Iran Hosts
Iran Flag
Razavi and Simon
Iran Crowd
 

Shiraz
Distinguished Ladies - Middle East Friends
Crowd and Cameraman
Monika and Citadel
Carpets
Mr. Shahabi Vikal Bazaar
Monika and Souvenirs
Shiraz Hospitality - German (Syrus) and Iran Friends
Persopolis - Cyrus the Great Tomb
 

Persepolis
Horse
Police Hospitality
Pro Photographer friends
Steps to Persopolis
Persopolis 1 - 5
Young Couple
Students
French friend on the road

 

Maymand Cave Village
Monika and Children
Maymand Welcome Stone
Maymand Cave dwellers
Maymand Homes
Maymand Locals
Maymand Lady
Maymand Ladies
Maymand Inside cave
 

Nomads
Nomad Children
Nomad Home
Nomad Meal