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Newfoundland 25 Oct 03
We had a sleepless night on board the ferry between Sydney (Nova
Scotia) and Port aux Basques in Newfoundland. We would like to thank
Atlantic Marine who gave us a 30% discount on the crossing. We
reached Newfoundland at 7am and found ourselves in a rain storm with
strong winds, facing a daunting 600 mile journey to St John’s, the
most eastern town in North America. Ever conscious of the worsening
weather we kept our stay in St Johns to just two days. We visited
the city's most famous land mark, 'Wireless Hill', where Marconi
installed the first commercial trans-Atlantic Wireless station to
establish radio links between Europe and north America. Many
tourists gathered around our BMW bikes, eager to know more about our
trip, and their strong Irish Accents revealed the city's predominant
ancestry. We received many gifts from the townsfolk including
everything from T-shirts to badges to celebrate our visit to this
historic town. We had one more goal before heading west to Nova
Scotia and that was to visit Cape Spear, the furthest point east in
North America. It was a short ride from St Johns taking only ten
minutes. We stayed just a few moments, but long enough to enjoy
magnificent coastal views of the Atlantic and admire a beautiful
white, wooden church which stood in splendid isolation amongst wild
open countryside.
We arrived at the ferry terminal at Channel Port Aux Basques after a
two-day ride and waited six hours to board the night ferry from
Newfoundland to Sydney, Nova Scotia. Our ferry crossing west was
much better planned than the one we made previously. This time we
rushed on board, determined to find a quiet location where we might
catch a few hours sleep during the six-hour crossing.
Nova Scotia 30 Oct 03
Gale force winds and thunderstorms delayed the ferry's arrival in
Sydney, Nova Scotia by 30 minutes. After disembarkation we had
breakfast in the ferry terminal. We travelled eight miles into the
town of Sydney where we stayed in the Delta Hotel. Delta had very
kindly agreed to sponsor us for one night's accommodation. We didn’t
do much -- just enjoyed the rest and relaxation of the hotel room.
The 600 mile ride across Newfoundland, battling against their famous
winds, had really taken its toll on us, so we just rested and
enjoyed the magnificent hotel views of the harbour.
The following day we met up with James, a Member of the local BMW
club, who had kindly offered his home garage so that we could change
the oil and filters on both bikes. This done, we said our goodbyes
and headed north to Cape Breton National Park and one of the most
beautiful trails in Canada, if not the World, to ride the famous
'Cabot Trail'. The Cabot trail Is 185 miles long and loops around
the Cape Breton highland. The Cabot Trail could easily be completed
in a single day but a few miles into this incredible journey
revealed the stunning natural beauty of the location, making us
wonder why we had not allocated at least one week to fully enjoy
this wonderful location.
The souvenir shops had all but closed for the season and the small
fishing boats had long ago been pulled ashore. The main source of
income for the local community is tourism and it would be a few
months yet before the tourists returned in force. Most of the
Souvenir shops and bed and breakfast premises were closed for the
off-season but a stop for gasoline at a local petrol station
revealed a pleasing community spirit. After topping both bikes with
fuel we went inside to pay and the lady owner insisted that she
treat us to a coffee and some chocolate biscuits. Six elders who
were playing cards in the far corner of the room, stopped and
enquired as to our well-being asking if we needed anything. The
owner insisted on looking round the bikes and, like many others
before, said how lucky we were to be participating in such an
adventure. We said our goodbyes and rode a further 30 miles to Cape
North, a small community where we had been invited to stay with
Douglas and Sandra, a retired couple who also had a love of
motorcycles. The following day after two tremendous home cooked
meals in their beautiful coastal home we continued south West to
complete the final 100 miles of the Cabot Trail and then continued
onwards to Pictou, our ferry departure point to Prince Edward Island
-- our ninth province of Canada.
We had a two hour wait so we decided to go for coffee at Tim
Horton’s Coffee and Bagel House, an establishment we had never heard
of until we visited Canada but to our surprise they appear to me
more popular and just as ubiquitous as McDonalds. We parked the
bikes and were about to enter when we were approached by a short,
middle-aged man who introduced himself as the Deputy Mayor of the
town. Like others he enquired enthusiastically about our trip and
after two minutes made his excuses. Then, one hour later, he
returned and beckoned us to come outside with two short taps on the
coffee shop window. He thanked us for visiting his town and insisted
we return in the summer when it would be much more beautiful. Then
he ceremoniously presented us with two souvenir breast badges which
we donned straight away. After a souvenir picture with one of the
town’s senior dignitaries, we said our goodbyes and caught the ferry
to Prince Edward Island. Once again, we move on with some pleasant
memories of kind people and places visited, to add to the now many
hundreds we have had the pleasure of meeting on this journey. |