25 Feb 2003  San Diego – Brattin BMW

We are back in USA after 3000 miles touring Baja Mexico.  We left Baja California early yesterday morning.  To be accurate, Simon woke me up at 4:30 am!!  But we had an early night so I did not mind that much. The entry to the Border area was a bit chaotic; but once we got to the border guard he just had a look at our passports and let us through. I found US roads very busy and fast after 2 peaceful and slow months in sunny and relaxing Baja. We arrived at Brattin BMW as arranged at 10 Am to be greeted with a firm handshake and a big smile by a limping Service manager called Gary Ore the result of an accident whilst off road riding the previous weekend, don’t worry Gary it happens to the best of us. (Simon 17 Accidents, Monika 11 Accidents) Gary told us they where very busy with the preparations for the forthcoming Boxer Cup race in Daytona but Gary had been told by Mr Harry Brattin and Poly the Owners of Brattin M/C that we where to be looked after and that’s exactly what they did. They donated their time and energy to provide an inspection of the bikes which is what they needed after a 1000 miles off road riding on the east coast of Baja, and a set of new tyres for Monika bike. Later Harry appeared in the show room and gave us a giant hug each which made Monika very emotional and home sick as Harry reminded Monika of her father

We had a few parcels waiting for us.  A new GPS V generously donated to us by Cycle Gadgets and the second box contained 2 LED back lights, new tank back for me and LED light with AA battery charger all courtesy of the team at Touratech in Germany.  For us it was like Christmas. This morning was crazy. It was pouring down with rain, we did final preparations to our presentation than panicked when found out we lost cables which connect our laptop to TV.  We left our hotel after 10:00 am trying to find an electrical shop.  In the shop we met Linda, motorcycle rider and fan of travelling.  Her first question was “where are you staying tonight?”  She kindly offered us her place.  Hurrrrraaaaa!!!  We have somewhere to stay for free, great news.

26^th February 2003 San Diego - Brattin Motor BMW

We had been invited by the President of BMW Club San Diego to give our presentation to their club members, which we did to a full house or should we say a full restaurant which did surprise us as the weather was terrible. The evening went great and they seemed to appreciate our efforts. Thanks to the generosity of the President, club members and the team at Brattin BMW  we raised some money for the Royal Manchester Hospital ward 15.  We don’t know how much as we don’t touch the money.  The BMW club president will send it directly to the hospital. Our biggest regret was not taking a picture with all the attendees as that would have been a terrific souvenir of our meeting and visit to San Diego.

Linda our host came to the presentation as well and took us to her home.  On the way back we stopped to buy ice cream, very nice but also very expensive.  Linda and her boyfriend live in a beautiful house with swimming pool over looking San Diego’s ‘Mission Bay'. In the morning we where treated to fresh coffee and toast.  We took few photos and said our goodbyes.  Linda collects beanie babies and she gave me an American Beanie Baby for good luck. We went back to Brattin Motors as Gary promised me a new wind shield, he kept his promise and I now have a taller, tinted shield on my bike. It was nice to be part of Brattin family if only for two days, but we had to get going as we had a tight schedule.

28^th February 2003 Tucson Arizona – Iron Horse

We arrived to Tucson after 10:00 pm and that was two days ago.  Frank a friend whom we met in Baja, and his wife Kathleen invited us to stay with them on the outskirts of Tucson. Both of them are not feeling too well so we had a relaxing days and evenings with video and pizza.  This morning we decided to go and visit local BMW before our departure to Texas. Manager and employees of BMW Iron Horse showed great interest in our trip and gave us a nice welcome.  Simon and I presented some of our video footage and photos from our visit in Mongolia, yet again the family atmosphere made us feel very much at home and what was only suppose to be a quick stop over but it turned into a three hour stay as Marty the Owner gave us a guided tour and showed us some historical pictures of BMW Iron horse and BMW motorcycles. We took some souvenir pictures with Marty, staff and customers alike before setting off in the direction of New Mexico and Texas.

We wanted to make as much distance as possible because of our desire to be on time for the Madigras in New Orleans and Daytona Bike show a few days later in Florida. It was 11 PM before we finally pulled over to find some ware to camp. The high police presence mostly traffic cops meant we could not free camp nor did we want to especially after what happened to us in Santa Monika California so we opted to put our tent up in a Lorry Park at the rear of two parked Lorries. We where still worried about the Police as our two BMW motorbikes where taking up the area of one vacant lorry space but as it turned out we got a good sleep if only for a few hours because at 5am we where on the road again.

Next stop Archie and Warren in Texas who had kindly offered us his home. We arrived late just before midnight after getting completely lost, we had been on the road 17 hours but Archie and Warren did not mind and we were greeted at the door with ice cold beer and dinner. In the morning we got the guided tour of his house and we where amazed to see so many motorcycles including a beautiful Red Ducati which had pride of place in the middle of his living room.

Bush Louisiana

We arrived at Bush Louisiana at 7pm after a mammoth 14 hour ride. We where 5 hours later than scheduled but that had not detoured the warm welcome we received from their friends, Local Bikers and a radio DJ. John gave me a ice cold beer before i dismounted the bike which was greatly appreciated and then we headed straight for the Barbeque which included Chicken, Sausages and of Crawfish. John and Belinda had been raving about Crawfish ever since we first first made email contact and at last Monika and I where sampling this local cuisine. We where completely Knackered after our ride but we felt we should give them a little presentation which was the least we could do after keeping every body waiting. The following Morning we where treated to one of Belinda's famous breakfasts which included everything you could possibly imagine.

The Mardigra in New Orleans had been something we had both wanted to do since the planning for our world tour and John and Belinda ensured we had the perfect day. John and Belinda made sure we got into the spirit of the occasion by buying us fat cigars and strong alcoholic tonics called jellies. Once loosened up and it doesn't take much! We where partying with the best of them, singing, dancing and having a fantastic time. Staying with John and Belinda in Bush for 3 days and visiting Mardi Gras gave us a unforgettable experience, plus we made two more fantastic friends.

6^th March 2003 Daytona - Florida

Relaxed and rested we rode to Daytona Bike week. We arrived on Thursday afternoon. Our first stop was local BMW dealer.  The place was heaving and Simon and I attracted lots of attention when we arrived with our over landing bikes.  We met with editor of Oil Rug magazine, Steve, for which we did interview two month ago.  We where also given a warm welcome by Maggie and Norman the owners of BMW Daytona.  At 5:00 pm we followed Steve to the Hilton Hotel where BMW had their headquarters for bike week but also where famous traveller Helge Pedersen was doing a presentation about his adventures around the world. (Inspiring, captivating and a must see!)

At about midnight we located a campsite 5 miles from Daytona, but the cost was $40.00 for one night.  There was no way we could afford that, so we found a quiet location away from the event and slept on somebody’s property in the ditch under the tree wrapped in the tent.

7^th-9^th March 2003 Daytona - Florida

We where up before daylight or should we say before the owners of the property awakened and spotted us at the end of their garden and headed back to Daytona. Thanks to PJ, Sheryl and other BMW organizers we did not have to worry about our accommodation for the next three nights as BMW North America kindly sponsored us a room in Hamilton Inn.  The contrast from the night before, sleeping on somebody’s property, worrying that someone will spot us  and covered in Mosquitoes and now having a comfortable room with hot shower. Heaven!!! 

Being in Daytona during a bike week you don’t get to spend much time in your hotel room.  There is so much happening all the time.  Simon and I had never seen so many bikes in one place before. The town was crazy, Everyone we met from BMW looked after us, we where invited to the banquet on Friday night, PJ - regional manager from California and an Englishman treated us to two BMW jackets and t-shirts, Al and Julie Jessie from Jessie luggage sponsored Simon a rear tire and BMW Daytona sponsored Simon the front tire which was very generous and greatly appreciated.

We made many interviews for TV and Magazines. BMW North America filmed a small video clip with us, and Young Jimmy Lewis gate crashed one of our interviews to place his stickers on our bikes with the promise he would buy us a beer later in the evening, which he never did ! :)  Jim – “The bike dude” - the man behind the camera kindly offered us his home for a few days near Tampa.  We had a truly exiting and memorable time a relaxing few days.

The best quote of the weekend came from the head of BMW North America during their banquet, when he said "He was glad when it started to rain as as he new the Harley Davidson Owners would run for cover leaving the streets of Daytona full of BMWs" and how true that was! We where extremely grateful to be included in the Boxer Cup event especially when there was so much going on and yes we do realise how busy every body was and it was a real honour to finally meet Helga Pederson the author the fantastic book "Ten years on two wheels" and also the Paris Dakar racer Jimmy Lewis whom Monika and I had heard so much about from the late John Deacon. But the biggest thank you goes to Texas Tom, Norman & Maggie (BMW Daytona), JP and Sheryl for ensuring everything we needed was catered for.

The greatest memory of Daytona Bike week was our ride from Louisiana to Daytona where incredibly 99% of the Harley Davidson's we saw heading to Daytona where on back of trailers and when I asked the owners at petrol stations why they where not riding there bikes instead of transporting them? They would would look at me with a puzzled and guilty face, and say "Err, the weather can get really bad at this time of year" !?!?!!

We departed from Daytona a couple of days after bike week as we just wanted to be together and have some quality time which sounds strange when we are together 24 hours a day seven days a week. A local motel sponsored three days accommodation it was only supposed to be one day but she said we both looked tired and dirty so she generously offered us three days and washed all our clothing. We did another interview with the local press then departed for Jim’s in Tampa. The route was straightforward and it took us through Orlando where detoured from the interstate to ride through the town. The temperature was nearly 40 degrees Celsius so we found shade underneath the protruding canopy of a Camera shop on the east side of town. Its funny that the longer we are on the road the more oblivious we seem to get to the mundane things which happen in normal life or should we say life’s reality is now just a blur best demonstrated by our action at sighting the cool shade of the  camera shop. There was no speech, just acknowledgement that it would be the perfect spot for a thirty minute break. So we mounted the curb with our bikes and parked parallel to the window front. Both us took of our motorbike jackets and dropped them in a heap on the floor followed by our boots. We gathered our jackets to make a makeshift cushion then just relaxed with our backs to the wall. The sun was blazing and it felt nice to be in the cool shade and then it dawned on us that we had literally stopped the traffic and the pedestrians as well. Our heavily laden bikes and our presence were causing much attention. First the pedestrians stopped and looked at us and the bikes which caused a small pedestrian jam on the side walk. Then the Cars drivers curious to the ever increasing crowed and our bikes stopped to have a better of view and then the horns starting blasting as the cars at the rear became impatient. We just laughed, not at the crowed or the attention we where getting but the fact we had just stripped off in the middle of the Down town. So not wanting to cause any more disturbance Simon moved one bike at a time into the car space to the side of the building which only moved the pedestrian crowed the same distance but now there was less chance of getting a ticket. Would we have done this a year ago? Certainly not!  You cant beat the buzz of a personal challenge and meeting new people every day and the greatest thing about our trip if we like something we stay, and if we don't we get on our Bikes and go, every day is something so unique and how many people can say that?

While we where resting in the shade a passing Biker ridding a Honda, stopped and got chatting to us.  We told him that we would like to visit local BMW dealer and to say hello and he kindly took us all the way there as we was going any way because he was responding to a raffle offer in one of the local papers where the winner could receive a new BMW motorbike.  Everybody at BMW Orlando was very nice, we got immediately offered cup of coffee. We stayed for about a hour and especially enjoyed the company of Greg a veteran of numerous Iron Butt Rides which means he has done some serious non stop endurance riding and has been rewarded with the Iron but certificate.

Brandon, near Tampa was our next stop for next two days, where we were given shelter at Jim’s and his wife’s house.  We got well looked after and caught up with sorting most of our updates and photos.. After a relaxing few days and good company we headed south our next stop Everglades City. Our first night we camped 20 km north of our destination was and slept underneath two Swamp Buggies infested with Mosquitoes and after a poor sleep and many bites we headed out for the short ride to the Everglade city.

The local campsite called Barons Camping Park gave two nights free and our good luck continued as we met Peter from New Jersey who took us out for the day on his speed boat.  This was a result of Simons Cheek and Peter’s generosity because when we pulled up at the local petrol station Simon asked Peter who was lazily watching the sun come up with a hot cup of coffee; did he know anybody with a boat? Pete replied yes me, and Simon asked any chance of taking us out for the day so we can see the Everglades but we have no money to give you but we can give you many stories of our world record challenge. Pete did not hesitate and not only did he give us a great day our he took us out for a wonderful meal in the evening. Peter showed us the area called thousand islands; we even made a stop at one of them.  It was an afternoon to remember.  Everglades is the first place where we saw our first wild alligator and not only one!!!.  Simon kept trying to do an interview with them, but they would not have it. Pete was not only one of life’s characters but a gentleman to go with it, so we made arrangements to meet up again when we would be passing through New Jersey.

 18^th March 2003 Key Largo

We arrived to Keys at the high season.  Free camping is not possible in the Keys, that  would mean expenditure of 30 dollars or more and as our daily budget is only 30 dollars we where reluctant to pay it.  But yet again our good fortune which we have received many times since our trip began did not desert us. as we stopped at the petrol station we where approached by man called Rick who asked us what we where doing, referring again to the heavily laden bikes.  When we told him he offered us his home for couple of nights, so we gratefully accepted. Next day I had to remind Simon that today is my Birthday!!! So He took me snorkelling to the Keys coral reef and we had a truly amazing day.

 21^st March 2003 Key West

We came to Keys for two main reasons, one to visit the furthest point of South East America, Secondly we had a romantic vision of getting a boat to  Cuba!

From Orlando to Key West we finally had a chance to really enjoy the scenery of rural America we where no longer chasing schedules and could slow right down. The best thing we did was adjust the Garmin GPS so that the auto route facilities avoided the highways which allowed us to enjoy and savour the beautiful landscape. We didn’t have much choice of route to Key West as only one road headed south over some amazing scenery. The ride to key west was very slow due to the high congestion of traffic due to the spring holidays we where not the only ones heading to Key west as the traffic was literally bumper to bumper. The ride south was interrupted by many bridges which joined the many islands of the keys and when we got to hot we parked the bikes stripped down to our swimming gear and relaxed and swam in the clear blue waters. We where later than we expected arriving the keys because unlucky for us we managed to pull along side an unmarked Police car 20 miles north of Key west and as we where about to set off again to ride through the congested traffic he switched on his siren for a couple seconds and then shouted from his window “stay in the line like everybody else” and that’s what we did but it didn’t really matter as we had so much to admire.

Key West is a beautiful town situated on the very last and southern most islands surprisingly there was no high rise apartment buildings or corporate tower scrapers just oldie worldly buildings spaciously laid out as if the gardens had priority . We didn’t ride directly into the centre we chose instead the coastal route which headed east before it circled west again to almost make a full circle. We eventually stopped the bikes at a large monument positioned only a couple of feet from the waters edge which proclaimed we where now at the furthest point south of the united states and that CUBA was only 90 miles way, it didn’t sound far but it was to us and to many Cubans the longest 90 miles you could ever imagine.

After a couple of Souvenir pictures we followed the signs to the centre of town but it wasn’t long before we stopped again by loud  blasts of a horn from a open topped van cruising behind us. The passenger was hanging dangerously from his window whilst taking photographs of the rear of our Bikes and then surprisingly to both Monika and I he started to shout something in the Czech Language. Monika pulled over instantly excited again to hear her mother tongue and as it turned out both the occupants of the van where from Prague Czech republic and where working at the local hospital as drivers. The passenger had noticed Monika’s Czech Sticker on the rear of the bike and excitedly shouted something which Monika responded to with a beaming smile and a returned greeting. For twenty minutes they chatted exchanging stories and laughter before one of the drivers said we must dash as we are delivering Plasma to the nearby hospital “Christ, I hope nobodies life depended on this delivery” and after a kisses all round they set off speedily whilst we continued into the centre town.

Key West centre is beautiful and preserved in history as 100 year old wooden buildings each individually painted and crafted fight amongst each over for the right to be admired most by the passing tourists. Traffic was light in the centre as carefully designed one way system keeps the traffic on the peripheral of the main street

We rode through the centre slowly keeping pace with the horse drawn trams and cycle taxis and eventually pulled up out side a large bar where there was no windows just flip screens which where tied up revealing the bar a small stage and a Elvis impersonator entertaining a small crowed of elderly tourists. It wasn’t long before us and our bikes became the centre of attention again and quickly a large crowed gathered around the bikes much to the annoyance of a local policeman watching from across the road until finally he came over and said “BMW’s” Yes we said “I’ve always wanted one, maybe next year” and then he moved on.

So after admiring further signs promoting the nude guest which frequent the bar and some of the body painted designs we decided to have a quiet drink on the ground floor. A girl of about twenty who I now know to be a local prostitute and looking the worse for alcohol came up to me and asked me if I needed anything and I said “Yes, a boat to Cuba” and with a confused look on her face she returned to the bar and continued drinking her cocktail.

We had been drinking for about five minutes before two Harley Davidson’s pulled up next to our bikes it was a young couple obviously deeply in love as they couldn’t stop looking at each other and touching each other and after briefly reviewing our bikes they came into the bar and asked if they could join us. We told them our story about getting to Cuba and they didn’t look that responsive especially when the lady revealed she worked for the coast guard. Her partner was in the US Navy working as a shallow water diver and after swapping a few military stories he suggested we try the VFW Bar (Veterans of Foreign Wars) as they could help with accommodation especially as I was recently retired from the military.

After thirty minutes they departed and so did we following their directions to the VFW which we new to be near but on the Western side of town. We eventually found it hidden away from tourist area but readily visible by a medium sized gun which had pride of place on the patio area and at head height was a plaque which gave the history of this World WAR 2 Icon.. Above the Gun was a large and typical American neo sign which promoted “VFW” there was no mistaking we had reached our destination. There was no parking area so we squeezed both bikes on each side of the gun leaving the Gun Barrel and the rear of our bikes protruding over the sidewalk.

We walked in the bar and  felt I had to tell everybody that I had just done 24 years in the military to justify us being there, because a large sign positioned just inside the entry said “Members Only – Entry by Invitation”

The welcome we received was warm and sincere and as soon as Monika explained about our adventure and that we had been on the road for nearly one year the whole bar emptied including the staff to admire our heavily laden motorbikes. The chairman dressed in Tartan open necked shirt and wearing a combat peaked hat came over and asked where we where staying we said we had no ware to go but our main concern was the security of our bikes and after a quick chat whith other members he kindly agreed to allow us to park our bikes in the rear of the bar. He opened the gate and we rode our bikes through the slim gap and parked in the least obtrusive place we could find.. Many chairs where positioned in no real pattern and four elderly men sat their quietly reading two of them noticed us, looked up and smiled but the other two did not move , look up or even notice we where had arrived but the main thing our bikes where safe.

We returned to the Bar and were we where bought a few drinks by the regulars and then Monika and I informed them we where in Key West because we wanted to get a boat to Cuba did they know anybody who could help, NO they replied “Maybe a year ago but not now especially with this administration tightening all the rules and increasing the fines, didn’t you know there was an embargo?” I replied “Yes we know, but we are not American Citizens and besides I have had a romantic vision that I can get a boat” They smiled, acknowledging our adventure spirit and the fact we where chasing our dream.

 Then one man said “Try, Kim Fisher” that was a name I had heard about in the everglades. “If anybody can help you he can, he knows all about adventure!!” Richest man in Florida if not the USA” It turns out his farther after many years of trying found and retrieved the biggest find of treasure some twenty miles of Key West. Unfortunately he died a few years later leaving the estate and wealth to his sons one of which called Kim still lived in Key West. We where told they had a museum which was now a popular tourist attract which showcased a lot of the treasure recovered so we decided to have something to eat and then we would ride over to see if he could help. One of the regulars came over and said you have no chance of getting to Cuba, impossible! I said nothings impossible and if you ask a thousand times then maybe, just maybe we will find somebody who will help us.

We found the museum easy enough as numerous road signs guided the way and when we pulled up outside we where quickly told we would have to move our bikes into the designated parking areas a few blocks away but when I told them I was here to see Kim Fisher implying I had an appointment they relented their official approach and guided us to a private parking area to the rear of the museum. One of the staff said he was at lunch and would not be back for an hour so we just rested in the shade under a small palm tree on the museums grass lawn. Thirty minutes passed before a medium sized 4x4 pulled up next to our bikes, well to me and Monika it was huge especially by European standards, but by America standards simply average. The occupant got out an attractive lady in her late thirties and she enquired about our presence and I said I was hear to see a Mr Kim Fisher, she said with a smile are you after Money!” I said NO just a BOAT TO CUBA”. Kim will be here shortly do you want to come in to our office”? That was the best thing she could have said as the heat was slowly sapping away our energy and the Air-conditioning would be the perfect antidote.  Monika slumbered as she arose from under the tree and Mrs Fisher quickly grabbed her arm and helped stand up, is this your bike referring to the bike with all the cuddly toys. Monika replied “Yes its mine” amazing, truly amazing, come in and relax” she said with a smile and a respectful look of admiration.

We told our story of adventure to all the staff who listened on enthusiastically until finally this tall figure, so tall he had to duck under the door beams walked in and with a big smile and a firm hand shake said “Nice BMW Bikes, come far, how can we help you”.

So we explained our dream to get to Cuba on a boat and he said there are flights from Miami to Cuba everyday why don’t you get a flight? but I said “It has to be a boat I have had this vision of both bikes  secured to the mast of a 60 ft boat and that is the way I want to get to Cuba”. Half expecting him to think that I was mad, he smiled and said” I admire your determination and adventure sprit, I am envious of your trip and the fact you are living your dream” I couldn’t believe it, a man you had recently acquired over 500 million dollars worth of treasure was telling me and Monika he was envious of us. He said “before I make a few enquiries come into my office I want to show you something” and so hesitantly we followed him in. Stand there he said, positioning me in the centre of his surprisingly basic office and then I watched him unscramble his large safe and as he opened the safe door I noticed security had gathered on each side of his office entrance looking in to ensure all was it should be and then Kim said extend your arms, which I did, still unsure what was to happen next and then he said “500000 dollars” and draped a gold chain in my hand. “250000 dollars it was another gold plate this time placed it in my other hand, finally 350000 dollars, as he squeezed emeralds and diamonds in the Palm of my left hands and with a smile he said “About 1 million dollars, that how much you worth now!!”  I said with a smile, just nipping out for second and I will be back if you can catch me!!

I was so amazed by all this display of wealth that I actually forgot to ask one of the richest men in America if he would like to sponsor our Guinness World Record Challenge, it didn’t matter because he had already said he was envious of us and our Adventure and then you realize how lucky you are to be living out your dream.