I called the japan automobile federation about what to do if you are not able to go to tokyo. They told me they can make a special exemption so you can go to their niigata office.
But
you need to send the following information in advance so they can tell the niigata office how to do fill out the forms.
1) name of carnet holder (your name)
2) date and time off arrival
3) port of arrival
4) day you will go to jaf office
5) copy of carnet (orange cover page and page you will use in Japan)
6) name of anyone travelling with you
7) date leaving Japan
8) port you expect to send motorcycle from when leaving Japan

You must send this a week before arriving in japan or you will have to go to Tokyo.
You (or anyone else coming to Japan and can't go to Tokyo) can send the information to me and i will forward it to jaf. Or you can send it directly to

ms. Matsuura
jaf international division
masonic 39 mori bldg. 11f
azabuda, minato-ku tokyo 104-0016
japan
telephone:03-3578-4910 (outside japan 81-3-3578-4910)
fax:03-3578-4911 (81-3-3578-4911)
e-mail:

Overlander willing to help from nz roger hogg rhogg@hotmail.com,  best time of year for biking in n.z is jan - april freight is easy from oz to nz. I can give you some emails of nz companies. Some ships go straight to auckland then christchurch (port lyttleton) and then dunedin (port chalmers) but others go straight to dunedin first. At smaller ports you will be able to store your crate free (dunedin for example) but at larger ports you will be expected to donate $50 towards the social fund. Costs vary a little but you will be quoted about nz$200 - but you can double this to cover paper work (allow $1000 return). Two bikes broken down in one crate will be cheaper. I have found international freight logistics nz ltd to be helpful as well allied custom agents ltd . See my story of south island mountain routes at www.horizonsunlimited.com/travellerstories.htm. Email me  for further info.

Any time is a good time to be in Australia. Summer (December-February) can get uncomfortably hot just about anywhere, except Tasmania. If you're in the southern states during these months it's great beach weather and great melanoma weather. Up north, this is the wet season, when it's very, very humid and when the sea is swarming with box jellyfish. On the upside, the Top End is beautifully green and free of tourists at this time.

From June until August things have cooled down a little and dried up a lot up north. This is a good time to visit Queensland or the outback. If you're here for the skiing, now's the time to head for the snowfields of Victoria and NSW. Overall, spring and autumn are probably the safest bets - the weather is reasonably mild wherever you are, and spring brings out the wildflowers in the outback, while autumn is particularly beautiful in Canberra and in the Victorian Alps. If you want to avoid holiday road chaos, don't arrive in Australia at Easter.

there is some very excellent country to see where i live in Bellingen NSW My freinds and i ride and camp around here and i think its one of the best places to see You would be most welcome to stay here, we have 5 acres so thers plenty of room, there are fire trails only 500 m from my house. temp very mild but Humid winter 4 deg cel summer up to 40 deg cel best times

1st choice march to may , 2nd aug - nov , email me if you need any further info.

DARWIN) /  (SHIPPING ADVICE REQUIRED)

I picked up your web page off the horizons web page, and thought i would get in touch. If you are in nz at any time, give me a call.. I have plenty of garage space and tools, and always a spare bed. I may even have time to show  you some of the good places to ride and visit. My good lady, the pillion in a million are planning a similar trip in about 4-5 years.

Regards  nigel marx (F650GS)

New zealand n.marx@ihug.co.nz

WEATHER REPORT

1-The Northern tropics-- our winter (may-Sep) as the summer is very hot and humid and being the wet season many of the dirt roads are closed.

2-Central Oz and the deserts--again our winter (may-sep) as in summer it can be as hot as 40-50 degrees celsius.

3-Southern States, Tasmania and Snowy Mountains, Beaches-- our summer(Oct-April) is great for this area. The above are the ideal times, of course you can travel out of season butr

Sydney Australia Honda XRV 750 Africa Twin 61 2 9399-5285(H) 61 2 9385-2094(W)

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4459/

In answer to another of your questions, during summer (Jan and Feb) daytime temperatures can get to 40 degC almost anywhere in Australia, although clearly this is less likely along the south coast. More importantly this is also the rainy season (officially Oct to Mar) in the North and inch an hour rain does not combine very happily with dirt roads for any vehicle let alone a fully laden GS. The other climate item to note is the humidity. Even in Sydney we have had 98% humidity days in the last couple of weeks (late spring) which mean that although it is not hot (mid 20s to low 30s C) it has been lethargic making. Generally South East Australia is more like Europe than you would imagine from the standard image projected abroad. Relatively heavily populated with good tar roads over hilly countryside and a good but moderate climate. When the tar runs out gravel roads are well graded and maintained. Even well used dirt roads turn to evil after rainfall however, as there is little or no clay in the soil so mud roads are effectively a thin layer of sand over rock. No traction whatsoever. There is an excellent Lonely Planet guide to Outback Australia which contains good stuff about crossing the continent (no connection etc. also I do not know how often it is updated). If you've never been to Oz, take very seriously the advice about sun protection and proper hydration. I mean VERY SERIOUSLY.

 ( bangkok)    located in bangkok happy to assist overlanders  ( ron)

 i have seen many rtw sites on the net which should be useful and will be mailing you once i can get a hold of them. I am based in bangkok, thailand and could assist you in your travelling plan out this part of the world if you need.

When to Go

The best time to visit Bangladesh is in the cold season, from October to February, when the weather is dry and fresh. Avoid April when humidity and heat gang up to make conditions intolerable.

The capital city of Bangladesh sits on the north bank of the bustling Buriganga River, roughly in the centre of the country. If you've arrived in Dhaka from South-East Asia, you'll probably be struck by the lack of hype and commercial activity. If you arrive from Delhi or Kathmandu, you're sure to notice the relatively clean air. If you've flown from Calcutta you might find it clean and orderly and if you've come overland through rural Bangladesh, it will seem like Babylon. Here the lights are as bright as they get in Bangladesh, and there's a range of goods and services lacking elsewhere in the country.

The oldest section of the city runs along the north bank of the waterfront and was developed when Dhaka was a significant Moghul trading centre. A must-see in the Old City is the area between the two main water transport terminals, Sadarghat and Badam Tole where the panorama of river life on the Buriganga is particularly fascinating. This area is always crowded with people and watercraft of every type. Along the waterfront is the old baroque-style palace, Ahsan Manzil which has been painted bright pink.

Dhaka's premier attraction is Lalbagh Fort, an unfinished fort dating from 1678 located in the Old City. The area also contains a couple of attractive mosques, including Hussain Dalan. The National Museum is north of the Old City in the old European zone known as Modern City. It has fascinating displays of Bangladesh's Hindu, Buddhist and Moghul past and an extensive collection of fine folk art and handicrafts.

Most of the cheaper accommodation and restaurants are in the Modern City of Central Dhaka. This area also contains the Motijheel Commercial Area, the business district where most of the banks, travel agents and airline offices are located. Dhaka is the rickshaw capital of the world, with over 300,000 colourfully painted rickshaws in operation. Taking a ride in one is as essential as catching a red double-decker bus in London.

When to Go

The best time to visit is October and November and during major festivals. The climate is best in autumn, from late September to late November, when skies are clear and the high mountain peaks are visible. This is the ideal time for trekking and for travelling throughout the country. You're likely to get wet no matter the season but avoid the monsoon, from June to August, when an average of 0.5m (1.5ft) of rain buckets down in Thimphu and up to 1m (3ft) saturates the eastern hills.

Attractions

Thimphu

Thimphu, the capital, lies in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu Chhu (river.) This is the only world capital without traffic lights. One was installed several years ago, but residents complained about its impersonalness and it was removed within days. Despite recent development, Thimphu retains its charm and is awash with brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades which give the town a captivating, medieval feel.

Thimphu is a cornucopia of Bhutanese culture brimming with things to see and do. Dominating the horizon, on a hill just above the town, the imposing Trashi Chhoe Dzong (fortress of the Glorious Religion) was completely renovated in the 1960s to become the symbol of the capital. It now houses the offices of the king and the central monk body. Most tour operators arrange a visit to the School of Arts & Crafts below the dzong. The school teaches traditional skills to talented children from throughout Bhutan, and a small shop sells some of the students' stunning works at reasonable prices.

Back in town, the most visible religious structure is the Memorial Chorten, containing numerous sacred religious paintings and tantric statues. For many, this is the focus of their daily worship and people circumnambulate the chorten throughout the day. The Weekend Market, in the centre of Thimphu, is an ideal spot to experience an urban and rural blend as villagers jostle with well-heeled Thimphu residents for the best bargains. Nearby, the Changlimithang Stadium is the national archery ground where you can see competitors participating in the kingdom's national sport, complete with traditional garb, colourful behaviour and entertaining rituals. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine is an interesting facility which uses over 300 different plants to make medicines distributed throughout the kingdom.

You will probably be booked into one of the town's top-end hotels unless you have scheduled your trip during the Thimphu tsechu, in autumn, when all the hotels are completely booked. In that case you may end up in a guesthouse, someone's home, or even a tent - best to just accept what you get, it's part of the ride. Also, you may have to revise your idea of 'top-end': many of Bhutan's hotels are only at the standard that India's were, say, 20 years ago, but the service and facilities are generally good. However simple your accommodation, your room is likely to be ornately decorated in Bhutanese style and you may, at first, think you are being led into a monastery rather than your boudoir.

Paro

If you come to Bhutan by air, you'll probably land in Paro. Western Bhutan is the heartland of the Drukpa people and you will be confronted with the largest, oldest and most spectacular dzongs in the kingdom. You will immediately realise you are off the beaten track of world tourism.

The town of Paro lies in the centre of the rich, fertile Paro Valley, with beautiful landscapes, scenic villages and historic buildings all within a few kilometres. Immerse yourself in Bhutanese culture in the National Museum close to the town centre - the building itself was completed in 1656.

In April 1998 a fire destroyed the main structure of Taktshang Monastery, perhaps Bhutan's most photographed and famous site, perched on the side of a cliff 900m (2952ft) above the valley floor. It is also known as 'Tiger's Nest' because Guru Rimpoche is said to have flown to the site on the back of a tigress in the eighth century. It has been one of the kingdom's most sacred sites ever since, and will be rebuilt in its original style once an auspicious date has been chosen.

Paro airport is 7km (4mi) from Paro town and 53km (33mi) from Thimpu. Taxis are rare and you should ensure that there is a vehicle meeting your flight.

Bumthang

It sounds like a blues bar in America's deep south but Bumthang is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient and precious Buddhist sites. (Smokers should stock up before arrival because the sale of tobacco is banned here.) In the centre of Bhutan, Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one, Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces. Jakar is at the foot of the Choskhor valley and likely to be your base. Jakar Dzong is the largest in Bhutan with a circumference of more than 1500m (4920ft), and was founded in 1549. Wangdichholing Palace was formerly the humble abode of King Uygen Wangchuck.

Further along Choskhor Valley, the temple of Jambey Lhakhang was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom's most spectacular festivals, the Jambey Lhakhang Drup, in October. Kurjey Lhakhang is named after the body print of Guru Rimpoche which is preserved in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings, which has stood since 1652. If you're feeling dzonged out and have had your fill of old, sacred buildings, take to the countryside. Here, the great majority of Bhutanese live as they have for thousands of years.

The best place to base yourself in the Bumthang region is Japar, just over 150km (93mi) from Thimpu. As with elsewhere in Bhutan, getting there is a matter of finding anything with wheels and renting it, flagging it, or catching it. It's either that or walk.

Phobjika Valley

Phobjika is a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, and is a designated conservation area nudging the borders of the Black Mountain National Park. It is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country because of the large flock of rare, endangered black-necked cranes that winter there. These birds have a special place in Bhutanese folklore, and one of the most popular folk songs laments the time when the cranes leave the valley to return to Tibet. With permission from the Nature Conservation Section in Thimphu, you can view the roosting place of these birds. It's an awesome spectacle at dusk when all the birds from the valley congregate for the night.

Permanent residents of the valley include muntjaks (barking deer), wild boars, sambars, Himalayan black bears, leopards and red foxes. WWF has assisted in setting up the Khebethang Nature Study Centre in Phobjikha village, near the foot of the valley

Nearby, Black Mountain National Park is a vast area still in its natural state. It has an impressive array of plant species, and animals found there include tigers, Himalayan black bears, leopards, red pandas, gorals, serows, sambars, wild pigs and golden langurs.

To get to Phobjika, take the main road to Wangi, and then turn off down a dirt road for a further 13km (8mi). Thimpu to Phobjika is 94km (58km).

When to Go

The ideal months to be in Cambodia are December and January, when humidity is bearable and it's unlikely to rain. From February on it starts getting pretty hot, with April being unbearably so. The wet season (from April to October) is very wet, but can be a good time to visit Angkor, where the moats will be full and the foliage lush.

Attractions

Phnom Penh

The capital still retains an undeniable charm despite its tumultuous and often violent past. It has several impressive wats (temple-monasteries) that include: Wat Ounalom, Wat Phnom and Wat Lang Ka. It is also home to the spectacular Silver Pagoda, which is one of the few places in Cambodia where artefacts embodying the brilliance and richness of Khmer culture can still be viewed. There are also displays of Khmer crafts in the National Museum and the Royal Palace, King Norodom Sihanouk's official residence.

The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are a grisly reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge. Some 17,000 people were killed here, just 15km south-west of the city centre, and over 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear, glass panel of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988.

You can sample vermicelli or frogs legs at any number of eateries, buy jewellery, antiques or the ubiquitous kramas (checked cotton scarves) at the Central Market, or purchase traditional works of art at the School of Fine Arts (Ecole des Beaux-Arts). The Central Market area, which includes Monirong Blvd, is the main centre for budget travellers; it has cheap accommodation and plenty of food stalls.

Angkor

The celebrated temples of Angkor are Cambodia's greatest tourist attraction. The 100 or so temples are the sacred remains of what was once a much larger administrative and religious centre. The temples were built between the 9th and the 13th centuries to glorify a succession of Khmer kings. Most of Angkor was abandoned in the 15th century and the temples became cloaked by forest. The site became the source of scholarly interest in the late19th century after the publication of Voyage à Siam et dans le Cambodge by French naturalist Henri Mouhot. Efforts were undertaken to clear away the jungle vegetation that threatened to completely destroy the monuments, and restoration continues today.

Apart from Angkor Wat, two other magnificent temples to visit are the Bayon and Ta Prohm. Accommodation and food can be found in the town of Siem Reap, only a few km from the temples.

Magnificent Halong Bay, with its 3000 islands rising from the clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin, is one of Vietnam's natural marvels. The tiny islands are dotted with innumerable beaches and grottoes created by the wind and waves. The most impressive of the grottoes is the Hang Dau Go, a huge cave of three chambers. The name Ha Long means 'where the dragon descended into the sea', and refers to a legend about a dragon who created the bay and islands with its flailing tail. There's even a modern legendary creature, the Tarasque, said to haunt the area.

When to Go

Spring (March-April) and autumn (September-October) are the best times to visit China. Daytime temperatures range from 20 to 30 degrees Celsius in these seasons, but nights can be bitterly cold and it can be wet and miserable. Major public holidays, in particular Chinese New Year, are best avoided as it's difficult to get around and/or find accommodation

Events

Chinese New Year (or Spring Festival) starts on the first day of the old lunar calendar, which usually falls in February. Although officially lasting only three days, many people take a week off. Ear plugs are handy at this time to dull the firecracker assaults, and prices of hotel rooms tend to go through the roof. The Lantern Festival isn't a public holiday, but it's big and it's colourful. It falls on the 15th day of the 1st moon (around mid-Feb to mid-March) and marks the end of the new-year celebrations. The famous lion dances occur throughout this period. Ching Ming (or Tomb Sweep Day) is in April, and sees Chinese families spend the day tending the graves of departed loved ones. Hong Kong hosts one of the liveliest annual Chinese celebrations - the Dragon Boat Festival. Usually held in June, the festival honours the poet Wut Yuan and features races between teams in long ornate canoes. Many Westerners take part in the races, but plenty of practice is needed to get all the paddles working as one.

Special prayers are held at Buddhist and Taoist temples on full-moon and sliver-moon days. Temple and moon-based festivities include Guanyin's Birthday (late March to late April), Mazu's Birthday (May or June), Water-Splashing Festival (13-15 April), Ghost Month (late August to late September), Mid-Autumn Moon Festival (October) and the Birthday of Confucius (28 September).

Attractions

Beijing

As a capital, Beijing casts a long shadow over the rest of China. Regardless of time meridians, Beijing time is followed nationwide; around the country, the Beijing dialect - putonghua - is spoken; and places such as Tibet and Ürümqi are forced to refer to the central government on all matters. For Beijing, the dictum that a nation's capital doesn't reflect the nature of the country as a whole is especially true. Instead it's a People's Republic of China (PRC) showpiece and a city of orderly design, with long, straight boulevards crisscrossed by lanes. Places of interest are easy to find if they're located on these avenues - and nearly impossible to find if they're buried down the narrow alleys. The city's central core was once a walled enclosure, and it still maintains its ancient symmetry based on a north-south axis passing through Qianmen (Front Gate).

Shanghai

Festooned with colourful nicknames like 'the Whore of the East', 'the Paris of China' and 'the Pearl of the Orient', Shanghai has long been symbolic of the West's rape of the East. In the years following 1949 its gaudy past and foreign appearance was a constant blot on the People's Republic of China's psyche. The city is divided in half by the Huangpu River, with most of the city's highlights located in Puxi. The city is said to have half the world's cranes in it (and judging by the skyline this can't be too far from the truth) but Shanghai's past still lingers. The best times to visit are spring and autumn - winter and summer here are merciless in their respective extremes. Shanghai is 15 hours from Beijing by train.

Hong Kong

Hong Kong's dynamism is unforgettable. From the vantage point of Victoria Peak, overlooking the world's busiest deepwater port, you can see a city geared not only to making money but feeling good about it. At night, it's like looking down into a volcano. Despite its British colonial past, Hong Kong has always stuck to its roots and the culture beneath the glitz is pure Chinese. That didn't stop locals from feeling apprehensive about being re-united with the motherland when the British handed the colony back to China in 1997, but their unease has largely evaporated. Visitors often find it takes a few days in Hong Kong to get accustomed to the whirlwind pace. If you need some respite, check out the Outlying Islands for a change of tempo and scene. A train from Beijing takes 30 hours. It's quicker, of course, to fly, but you can expect to pay as much from Hong Kong to Beijing as you would from Hong Kong to Los Angeles.

Xi'an

Xi'an was once a major crossroads on the trading routes from eastern China to central Asia, and once vied with Rome and later Constantinople for the title of greatest city in the world. Today Xi'an is one of China's major drawcards, largely because of the Army of Terracotta Warriors on the city's eastern outskirts. Uncovered in 1974, over 10,000 figures have been sorted to date. Soldiers, archers (armed with real weapons) and chariots stand in battle formation in underground vaults looking as fierce and war-like as pottery can. Xi'an's other attractions include the old city walls, the Muslim quarter and the Banpo Neolithic Village - a tacky re-creation of the Stone Age. By train, Xi'an is a 16 hour journey from Beijing. If you've got a bit of cash to spare, a flight will set you back about US$120.

Macau

Ever since Portuguese galleons first started dropping by in the 1500s, Macau has been a memorable meeting place of cultures. It's fitting that the city's symbol is St Paul's, the spectacularly crumbling facade of a cathedral designed by an Italian, built by Japanese, attended by Portuguese, and almost destroyed by a Chinese typhoon. For a great view of this compact city take a hike up to nearby Monte Fort, or Guia Fortress, where you'll find a rustic 17th-century chapel and the oldest lighthouse on the China coast. The city's most historic place of worship still in action is the 400-year-old Kun Iam Temple, dedicated to the queen of heaven and goddess of mercy. Add to this a fantastic combination of Portuguese and Chinese cuisine, a gloriously gaudy casino-led nightlife and a streetscape of cobblestones and shady squares and you've got a wonderful antidote to mainland China and Hong Kong. Macau is 65km (40mi) by sea from Hong Kong.

When to Go

When should you go? The current answer is when East Timor is back on its feet. When that is the case, the best time to visit is just after the wet season, around late April to June/July, when the countryside is green. The hottest months are October and November. Travel is certainly possible but difficult during the December-April wet season, when many roads are washed away.

Events

Like everything in East Timor, public holidays are under revision. Christian dates and Catholic festivals form the basis of the calendar, with new public holidays commemorating such landmark dates as the referendum of 30 August 1999 and the UN liberation. Holidays include New Year's Day (1 January), Good Friday (late March/early April), Assumption Day (15 August), Consultation Day (30 August), Liberation Day (20 September), Santa Cruz Day (12 November, commemorating the cemetery massacre at the Santa Cruz church) and Christmas Day (25 December).

Attractions

Dili

East Timor's capital is a pleasant, lazy city with Portuguese touches such as villa-lined beach roads and the massive old garrison, built in 1627. Most of Dili was destroyed in 1999 and just about every remaining building bears some sort of scar from the violence. The long stretch of waterfront remains a place of commerce and leisure, and a focal point for evening walks and weekend outings.

This strongly Catholic city has plenty of churches, and a massive statue of Christ gives the hilltop headland at Cape Fatucama a touch of Rio de Janeiro. There are magnificent views from the hilltop, but as muggers have been active in the area it's best to check the current security situation before setting off.

The Dili region has several good beaches, with decent snorkelling below the headland. The most popular area is the sheltered cove of Areia Branca, also known as Pasir Putih (or 'White Sands' in English), about 3km east of Dili town. Atauro Island is visible from the waterfront, but no scheduled boat services go there.

Heading west from Dili, along the beautiful coast road, there are some good beaches, and fruit and fish stalls at intervals along the road. Liquica, an hour away from Dili, was the site of a massacre in the church in 1999 and is gradually recovering. There's a black-sand beach with some welcome shady trees.

Baucau

Baucau, the second-largest town in East Timor, is still charming, despite the ravages of 1999. The two-hour drive east along the coast from Dili via Manatuto is gorgeous, with clear water and beaches along the way

Heading south to Suai takes around four hours along a road that usually becomes impassable during the wet season. The forests in this region were important sources of sandalwood, teak and vanilla during Portuguese times, but unsustainable logging practices during Indonesian rule have whittled away this valuable resource.

When to Go

One of Delhi's drawbacks is that for more than half the year the climate is lousy. For about five months - from November until the end of March - it is very good, with daytime temperatures between 21 and 30°C (70-86°F). By the end of April it's hot, while May and June are intolerable. In July it gets cooler but the humidity really hits, with all-day rain through August and September. The hugely colourful Republic Day march is held in January, while the exuberant Hindu festival of Holi takes place in February or March.

Events

Holi, in February or March, is one of the most exuberant Hindu festivals. To mark the end of winter, people chuck large quantities of coloured water and powder at one another - tourists are not excluded. In March or April, Hindus celebrate the birth of Rama by reading the Ramayana at temples throughout the city. In April or May, Sikhs have a similar celebration, Baisakhi where the holy book, the Granth Sahib is read, followed by feasting and dancing.

If you're in Delhi in July, don't miss the International Mango Festival, when Talkatora Stadium hosts hundreds of varieties of the heavenly fruit. August and September are happy festival months - during Ganesh Chaturthi the elephant-headed god gets heaps of attention, while on Janmashtami Krishna's birth is celbrated with plenty of mischief-making. Ram Lila, India's most popular festival, runs over ten days in September or October - the Ramayana is reenacted and huge images of the demon Ravana are burned. In late October, Hindu homes light oil lamps to guide the god Rama home from exile, during the festival of Diwali, which is also known as the festival of sweets.

Delhi's Muslims clebrate the usual Muslim festivals. During Ramadan, the most important, Muslims fast from dawn to dusk to commemorate the revelation of the Qu'ran to Mohammed. When Ramadan ends, Muslims celebrate Id-ul-Fitr by eating a great deal and praying at the Jama Masjid.

Attractions

Red Fort

The red sandstone walls of the massive Red Fort (Lal Qila) rise 33m (108ft) above the clamour of 'Old' Delhi as a reminder of the magnificent power and pomp of the Moghul emperors. The walls, built in 1638, may have been designed to keep out invaders, but today they mainly keep out the noise and confusion of the city, making the fort and its gardens and pavilions a peaceful haven from the surrounding chaos. The fort's main gate, the Lahore Gate, is one of the emotional and symbolic focal points of the modern Indian nation and attracts a major crowd each Independence Day.

The vaulted arcade of Chatta Chowk, an impressive covered bazaar now dedicated to selling tourist junk, leads into the huge fort compound. Inside is a veritable treasure trove of buildings, including the Drum House, the Hall of Public Audiences, the white marble Hall of Private Audiences, the Pearl Mosque, Royal Baths and Palace of Colour. An evening sound and light show re-creates events in India's history connected with the fort. It's well worth seeing the show, but make sure you bring that modern self-defence system - mosquito repellent.

Goa's beachnik lifestyle is best experienced during the winter months between October and the end of February: at any other time you're likely to either fry under the uncomfortably hot sun or find your equanimity threatened by the monsoonal rains. The months of January, February and March are the best months for Hindi festivals and celebrations. January has the colourful festival of Shantadurga Prasann, February the three day zatra of Shri Mangesh, and in March is the festival of Holi, called Shigmo.

Events

Because Goa has a large Christian community, most Christian festivals such as Easter and Christmas are celebrated along with a host of minor deity days such as the Feast of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception and the Feast of St Francis Xavier, both in December. Hindu festivals tend to occur at the beginning of the calendar year. The Festival of Shantadurga Prasann, in January, involves a night-time procession of chariots bearing the goddess followed by over 100,000 faithfuls. In the colourful and dramatic Procession of Umbrellas at Cuncolim south of Margao, the same goddess is honoured with a procession carrying a solid silver image of her to the original temple site. The three day zatra of Shri Mangesh takes place in February in the lavish temple of the same name. During the same month in the old Fontainhas district of Panaji, the Maruti zatra draws huge and colourful crowds. March sees the festival of Holi or Shigmo.

Attractions

Panaji

Most visitors treat Panaji as little more than a transport hub, but this lovely state capital has retained its Portuguese heritage in a lived-in, knockabout kind of way and exudes an aura more reminiscent of the Mediterranean than of India. If it weren't for the crush at the bus depot, the unmistakable buzz of auto-rickshaws and the fact that the bridge over the Mandovi River has fallen down twice in the last nine years, Panaji could seem like any siesta-ridden provincial town on the Iberian Peninsula. It contains all the quaint Mediterranean iconography - from the cramped cobbled streets, pastel-hued terraces and flower-bedecked balconies to the terracotta-tiled roofs, whitewashed churches and those small bars and cafes that are the social lifeblood of secular Portugal.

The old district of Fontainhas is the most atmospheric area to walk around, and includes the Chapel of St Sebastian which contains a striking crucifix that originally stood in the Palace of the Inquisition in Old Goa. The Church of the Immaculate Conception, consecrated in 1541, is Panaji's main place of worship, and it was here that recently arrived sailors from Portugal gave thanks for a safe passage. It's worth taking one of the river cruises along the Mandovi River, but try to persuade your captain not to loiter under the bridge spans in order to admire Indian engineering.

Old Goa

Half a dozen imposing churches and cathedrals and a fragment of a gateway are all that remain of the second capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur and the Portuguese capital that was once said to rival Lisbon in magnificence. Wracked by cholera and malaria epidemics, eroded by monsoon rains and choked by creepers, Old Goa has declined from a vibrant city of over a hundred thousand souls to little more than a handful of potent architectural relics.

Old Goa is still the spiritual heart of Christian Goa, and its most famous building is the Basilica of Bom Jesus, which contains the tomb and mortal remains of the peripatetic St Francis Xavier, credited with introducing Christianity to much of South-East Asia. Also of interest is the Convent & Church of St Francis of Assisi, which has gilded and carved woodwork, murals depicting scenes from the saint's life, and a floor substantially made of carved gravestones. The largest of the churches is the Portuguese-Gothic Se Cathedral, dating from 1562, which houses the so-called 'Golden Bell', whose resonant peal can be heard thrice daily. Other gems include the Church of St Cajetan which was modelled on St Peter's in Rome and the Royal Chapel of St Anthony. Not a single secular building remains standing, so don't say God doesn't work in mysterious ways.

Anjuna

The collection of people attracted to the beach settlement of Anjuna in North Goa may seem eclectic at first glance, but there are common (if loose) organic and spiritual threads woven between the hippies, artists, mild crazies and supposed ex-materialists who congregate here. It's famous throughout Goa for its Wednesday flea market, and has retained an undeniable, if somewhat shabby, charm. This is a good place to stick around for a while, make some friends and engage in mellow contemplation while the sun goes down. Full moon, when the infamous parties take place, is a particularly good time to be here if you want to indulge in bacchanalian delights. Only a Brit would think about raving about the main beach, but it's worth the walk to the small, protected sliver of sand at South Anjuna where the area's long-term house-renters tend to gather.

Chapora & Vagator

This is a fascinating part of the Goan coastline and more genuinely salubrious than Anjuna. It boasts a patchwork of coconut palms and the enigmatic character of Chapora village, which is more unruly farmyard than a fishing community doubling as a beach resort. The village is on the estuary of the Chapora River and is overshadowed by a rocky hill which supports a well-preserved Portuguese fort. There are sandy coves, pleasant beaches and rocky cliffs at nearby Vagator. Be prepared for Indian coach tourists coming to ogle sunbathing Westerners, and expect any police you encounter to regard you with some suspicion and shake you down for drugs if you mistakenly tell them you're staying at Chapora.

Calangute & Baga

Once upon a time, Calangute was the it beach for hippies, where pujas, ganja, drug-addled musicians and other lost artistic souls predominated, a beach of the truly half-baked that modern Leonardo di Caprioan versions couldn't hold a psychedelic candle to. But alas for those who still seek the 'revolution', or the occasional naked group frolic, Calangute is no longer Hippy Central. The local people, who used to rent out rooms in their houses for a pittance, have moved on to more profitable things, and the place has undergone a metamorphosis to become the centre of Goa's rapidly expanding package-tourist market.

Calangute isn't one of the best Goanese beaches: there are hardly any palms, the sand is contaminated with red soil and the beach drops rapidly into the sea. There is, however, plenty going on, especially if you don't mind playing a minor role in this stage-managed parody of what travelling is meant to be about. Try heading off the beaten track unless you need a bit of R 'n' R to recover from life on the road, or want to mix it with the Simons and Sandras of this world who are visiting India to pep up their winter suntans.

When to Go

Though travel in the wet season is possible in most parts of Indonesia, it can be a deterrent to some activities and travel on mud-clogged roads in less developed areas is difficult. In general, the best time to visit is in the dry season between May and October.

The Christmas holiday period beings a wave of migratory Australians and there's an even bigger tourist wave during the European summer holidays. The main Indonesian holiday period is the end of Ramadan, when some resorts are packed to overflowing and prices skyrocket.

Events

With such a multiplicity of ethnic groups, Indonesia has, unsurprisingly, a surfeit of cultural events throughout the year. On Sumba, mock battles that hark back to the era of internecine warfare are held in February and March. The day before Balinese Caka New Year (March-April) temple icons are taken to the sea to be bathed and drummers drive evil spirits back to the spirit world. During the Balinese festival of Galungan (moving dates) even the gods descend to earth and join in the revelry. There's a dramatic Easter Parade on the island of Larantuka, whip duels in Ruteng, Flores in August and Torajan funereal feasts are held in central Sulawesi, mainly between August and October. As most Indonesians are Muslim, many festivals are affected by the lunar calendar; dates are subsequently pushed back 10 or 11 days each year.

Attractions

Bali

Bali is so picturesque that you could be fooled into thinking it was a painted backdrop: rice paddies trip down hillsides like giant steps, volcanoes soar through the clouds, the forests are lush and tropical, and the beaches are lapped by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean. But the postcard paradise gloss has been manufactured and polished by the international tourist industry rather than by the Balinese themselves - who don't even have a word for paradise in their language - and it pays scant regard to the hard reality of life on Bali, which is currently suffering the fallout from Indonesia's economic crisis and collapsing currency.

Java

Java is the political, geographic and economic centre of the Indonesian archipelago. It's a relatively small island, (approximately the same size as England) but has a population of 112 million, accounting for 55% of the country's total population. The island is long and narrow in shape, with a string of volcanic mountains punctuating its spine. It was on Java that the Hindu-Buddhist empires reached their zenith, producing architectural wonders such as Borobudur and Prambanan. When Islam came to the island in the 15th century, it absorbed rather than erased local cultures, leaving Java with a mish-mash of historic influences and religions. A strong conciousness of ancient religious and mystical thought carries over into present-day Java, providing a bulwark against wholesale modernisation.

Lombok

Lombok is a place of uncrowded beaches and tranquil countryside, dominated by the spectacular volcano of Mt Rinjani. The people are mostly Muslim (the Sasaks), though there are isolated groups of Balinese Hindus. The Sasak culture is noteworthy for weaving, its brilliant and dramatic dances, and its ritualised pageantry and contests. Balinese culture still survives in Lombok - a remnant of the time when Balinese princes once controlled the island - and Lombok's tourist businesses are largely run by Balinese.

Sumatra

Sumatra has a wealth of natural resources and wildlife, massive rivers like muddy facsimiles of the Amazon, and some interesting architecture. It is almost four times the size of neighbouring Java, but supports less than a quarter of the population. During Dutch rule, it provided the world with large quantities of oil, rubber, pepper and coffee, and these seemingly inexhaustible resources continue to prop up the Indonesian economy today. Sumatra is home to a number of different races and peoples: the former head-hunters and cannibals of the Batak regions; the matrilineal Muslim Minangkabau and the primitive groups of the Mentawai Islands.

When to Go

Malaysia is hot and humid all year so you're going to have sunshine and sweat pretty much whenever you visit. It is, however, best to avoid the November to January rainy season on Peninsula Malaysia's east coast if you want to enjoy the beaches. The time to see turtles on the east coast is between May and September.

Events

The major Islamic events are connected with Ramadan, the ninth month of the Muslim calendar. The major Malaysian festival is Hari Raya Puasa, which marks the end of Ramadan with three days of joyful celebrations. Hari Raya Haji marks the successful completion of the hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca) with a two-day feast of cakes and sweets. Chinese New Year, in January or February, is welcomed in with dances, parades and much good cheer. The festival of Thaipusam in late January is one of the most dramatic Hindu festivals (now banned in India) during which devotees honour Lord Subramaniam with acts of amazing masochism - definitely not for the squeamish. In KL, devotees march to nearby Batu Caves; in Penang, the event is celebrated at the Waterfall Temple. The Kota Belud Tamu Besar is a huge tribal gathering held in May at Kota Belud near Kota Kinabalu in Sabah. It includes a massive market, traditional ceremonies, ornately decorated horsemen, medicine men and tribal handicrafts. A smaller tamu is held in Kota Belud every Sunday if you're not visiting during May.

Attractions

Kuala Lumpur

In 130 years, Kuala Lumpur has grown from nothing to a modern, bussling city of well over a million people. Superficially, KL (as it's almost universally known) may appear to be just another modern Asian city of gleaming skyscrapers, but it retains much of the character and local colour that has been so effectively wiped out in other Asian-boom cities such as Singapore. It has plenty of colonial buildings in its centre, a vibrant Chinatown with street vendors and night markets, and a bustling Little India.

When KL does something, it likes to do it big. The twin Petronas Towers skyscrapers - the tallest building in the world - dominate the skyline, while in Merdeka Square stands a 95m (312ft) flagpole. Despite the economic crisis, Kuala Lumpur is currently the site of large-scale development, with work underway on a new US$8 billion city on the southern fringe of the capital as well as an adjoining 'ultra-high-tech multimedia supercorridor'. Before the Asian economic crisis hit in 1997, there were also plans to build the world's longest building, too.

Budget hotels and hostels can be found in Chinatown and Jalan Pudu Lama. Mid-range hotels are concentrated in Chinatown and on Jalan Bukit Bintang. The night market in Chinatown is the most interesting place to eat in the evening.

Melaka

Melaka is an interesting blend of Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British influences and is considered Malaysia's most historic city. It was once the most important trading port in the region but is now little more than a sleepy backwater. Ancient-looking junks still sail up the river, imbuing the waterfront with a timeless charm, and the city remains full of intriguing Chinese streets, antique shops, temples and nostalgic reminders of the now-departed European colonial powers.

The most imposing relic of the Dutch period in Melaka is the massive pink town hall, Stadthuys, built between 1641 and 1660. It's believed to be the oldest Dutch building in Asia and displays all the characteristic features of Dutch colonial architecture (read incredibly weighty doors and pleasant louvred windows). The building houses government offices and an excellent Ethnographic Museum, which highlights aspects of local history and culture. The imposing ruins of St Paul's Church, built by the Portuguese over 400 years ago, stand in a beautiful setting atop St Paul's Hill. It was regularly visited by St Francis Xavier, who was buried here for a short period before being transferred to Goa in India. The church fell into disuse when the Dutch arrived, but is still surrounded by old Dutch tombstones. The Brits, with great sensitivity, used the church as a gunpowder store.

For those who prefer their religious architecture to be a little more colourful, the Cheng Hoon Teng Temple in the old part of the city is the oldest Chinese temple in Malaysia. It was founded in 1646, and all of the materials and all of the artisans who built it were imported from China. The old part of Melaka is a fascinating area to wander around, and this is where you'll find many of Melaka's famous antique shops; a stroll along Jalan Hang Jebat will pass the best of them.

Georgetown - Penang Island

The 285 sq km (177 sq mi) island of Penang, off Peninsula Malaysia's north-western coast, is the oldest British settlement in Malaysia and one of the country's premier resort areas. The island's beaches are touted as the major drawcard but they're somewhat overrated. What makes Penang Island really tick is the vibrant and intriguing city of Georgetown (pop 400,000) on the island's north-eastern coast. This city has more Chinese flavour than either Singapore or Hong Kong, and in its older neighbourhoods you could be forgiven for thinking that the clock stopped at least 50 years ago. Georgetown is a compact city and it's a delight to wander around. Set off in any direction and you're certain to see beautiful old Chinese houses, vegetable markets, temple ceremonies, trishaws, mahjong games and all the other to-ings and fro-ings of Asian street life.

You can still see the time-worn walls of Fort Cornwallis in the centre of Georgetown where the first Briton, Captain Light, set foot in 1786 on what was then a virtually uninhabited island. He established a free port here and the stone fort was finished a few decades later. The area within the fort is now a park liberally sprinkled with cannons, many of them retrieved from local pirates. Seri Rambai, the largest and most important cannon has a chequered history dating back to 1600. It's famed for its procreative powers, and childless women are recommended to place flowers in the barrel of 'the big one' and offer special prayers.

Penang has many kongsis (clan houses that operate partly as temples and partly as meeting halls for Chinese of the same clan or surname) but Khoo Kongsi is easily the finest. The original building was so magnificent and elaborate that no-one was surprised when the roof caught fire on the very night it was completed. This misfortune was taken merely as a sign that the building had been too grandiose, so a marginally less magnificent structure was built. One wonders at the opulence of the original since the present structure is a dazzling mix of dragons, statues, paintings, lamps, coloured tiles and carvings.

Kuan Yin Teng Temple right in the centre of the old part of Georgetown is nowhere near as impressive, but it's one of the most popular temples in the city and there are often worshippers burning paper money at the furnaces, night-time puppet shows or Chinese theatre performances. For the best view of the city and the island, catch the funicular railway up Penang Hill which rises 830m (2722ft) above Georgetown and provides cool relief from the sticky heat below. There are pleasant gardens, a hotel, a Hindu temple and a mosque at the top. The view is particularly good at dusk when Georgetown, far below, begins to light up.

Most of the popular budget hotels in Georgetown are along Lebuh Chulia. More expensive options line Jalan Penang. There are plenty of Chinese and Indian restaurants, but be adventurous and try the succulent local dishes on offer from the street stalls, which appear at night along the Esplanade behind the Penang Library.

Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands, in the centre of Peninsular Malaysia, comprise a series of hill stations at altitudes between 1500 and 1800m (4920 and 5904ft). This fertile area is the centre of Malaysia's tea industry and it's the place where locals and visitors come to escape the heat of the plains. Attractions include jungle walks, waterfalls, tours of tea plantations, beautiful gardens and plenty of wild flowers. The cool weather tempts visitors to exertions normally forgotten at sea level, like golf, tennis, and long walks, but this is really Malaysia's R 'n' R capital par excellence for those who don't like the beach and enjoy a bout of colonial nostalgia. Most of the budget hotels are in the village of Tanah Rata. The more expensive options are scattered between Tanah Rata and Brinchang.

Tioman Island

This picture-postcard island lies off the eastern coast of Peninsula Malaysia in the South China Sea. It boasts beautiful beaches, clear, coral-filled water, technicolour marine life, virtually unpopulated jungle highlands, crystal-clear streams, and the dramatic peaks of Batu Sirau and Nenek Semukut. Tioman has been blessed with exotic place names like 'Palm-Frond Hill' and 'Village of Doubt' and is generally quoted as the setting for the mythical Bali Hai in the film South Pacific. The permanent population on Tioman is low, and locals are usually outnumbered by tourists. June and August are the peak tourist months, but during the heavy November to January monsoon the island is almost deserted.

The island's west coast is dotted with villages and is home to a classy resort. Pulau Tioman is the most popular travellers' destination; Kampung Nipah is the place to go if you really want to get away from it all. You can get to Tioman by boat from Mersing and Singapore. The island's largest village, Kampung Tekek, has an airstrip.

When to Go

The travel season is typically from May to early October, though Ulaan Baatar can be visited any time of year if you can tolerate the bitter cold. Early July has the best weather for the northern part of the country and is also the time to celebrate Mongolia's Naadam Festival. Be aware, though, that this is also when Ulaan Baatar's inadequate accommodation and creaky transport is stretched to the breaking point. June and September are both pleasant times to visit, and attract fewer visitors. The best months to visit the Gobi Desert and not get toasted are September and October. Be aware that between mid-October and mid-May sudden snowstorms and extreme cold can ground flights, block roads and cause the country's transport system to stall.

Events

The biggest event of the year is the Naadam Festival, known as the eriyn gurvan naadam, after the three 'manly sports' of wrestling, archery and horse racing. The festival is held all over the country, normally between 11 and 13 July, the anniversary of the 1921 Mongolian Revolution. The major events take place during the first two days. Tsagaan Sar (White Month) is the start of the lunar new year in January or February. After months of enduring a bitter winter, Mongolians celebrate over three days with a lot of food, liquor and singing.

Attractions

Ulaan Baatar

Often called UB by foreigners, Mongolia's sleepy capital has the look and feel of a neglected 1950s European city. The old Soviet cars and buses are slowly being replaced by newer Japanese versions, but cows still wander the roads, goats sift through the rubbish, and traditionally dressed men and women mingle on the city's streets with Mongolia's nouveaux riche.

Built along the Tuul river and surrounded by lovely mountains, Ulaan Baatar is dominated by communist style highrise apartment buildings, but about 250,000 locals also live in the extended ger suburbs on the outskirts of town. The felt gers are protected from the winds, which are especially fierce in spring, by wooden fences. The topography makes for good hillside views overlooking the city, but during winter the view is obscured by pollution and temperatures are painfully freezing.

The centre of the city is Sükhbaatar Square. From this spot in July 1921 Damdiny Sükhbaatar, the 'hero of the revolution', declared Mongolia's independence from the Chinese. The square was also where the first protests were held in 1989 which eventually led to the fall of communism. On normal days, it's a serene place where only pigeons and peddling photographers do much of anything. The grey State Parliament House faces the square, as does the tall, modern Palace of Culture, a useful landmark containing the impressive Mongolian Art Gallery and other odes to Mongolian culture.

One block north-west of the square, the Museum of Natural History is worth a visit if you're heading into the countryside. There are exhibits about Mongolia's geography, flora and fauna and some displays about recent Mongolian history. More impressive are the 2 complete dinosaur skeletons which were found in the Gobi - the giant flesh eating Tarbosaurus and its first cousin, the little duckbilled plant-eating Saurolophus. The Zanabazar Museum of Fine Arts has an excellent collection of paintings, carvings and sculptures, including many by the revered sculptor, artist and Buddhist, Zanabazar. It also contains other rare religious exhibits, such as thangkas (cloth paintings) and Buddhist statues.

Around the start of the 19th century, over 100 Tibetan Buddhist süm (temples) and khiid (monasteries) served a population of about 50,000 in Ulaan Baatar. Most of the temples and monasteries, along with their belongings, were destroyed during the Stalinist purges of the late 1930s. Gandantegchinlen Khiid survived because the communists kept it as a showcase to impress foreigners. Roughly meaning 'the great place of complete joy', Gandan is one of Ulaan Baatar's most amazing sights. Within it are several glorious temples adorned with gold and jewels. The 150 or so monks who live here do their bit to bring the temples back to life with plenty of chanting and ceremonialising.

The Winter Palace of Bogd Khaan was also spared. Built between 1893 and 1903, it's where Mongolia's 8th Bogd Khaan (Living Buddha) and last king, lived for 20 years. Depending on which version of history you read, the Bogd Khaan either enjoyed irreverent pleasures of the flesh and bottle and was blind with syphilis, or he was a great visionary and nationalist. When he died in 1924, the Soviet-led communist government of Mongolia prohibited any future reincarnations, so there were no further Mongolian Buddhist leaders. The 6 temples on the grounds of the Winter Palace contain collections of gifts given the Bogd Khaan, including an extraordinary array of stuffed animals.

Four Holy Peaks

The 4 peaks surrounding Ulaan Bataar are considered holy. The Tsetseegum, Chingeltei, Songino Khairkhan and Bayansurkh mountains correspond, more or less, to the 4 points on the compass. These peaks are tremendous for hiking, and they're popular for their forests of larch trees, grasslands and stunning bird and animal life, including ibex and sable. Tsetseegum Uul is easily the most magnificent. At 2260m (7400ft), it's the highest point in the Bogdkhan Uul range, which dominates the skyline to the south of Ulaan Baatar. The trip is only sensible from the beginning of June to the end of September and a permit is required, which you can get at the entrance gate to the Bogdkhan National Park, about 15km (9mi) south of Ulaan Baatar.

The Manzshir Khiid Route to Tsetseegum from the mountain's southern side is the easiest. Along it there are broad meadows, fields of rocky boulders and ovoos (pile of stones left as offerings to the gods). The Zaisan Route is the most scenic but also the most difficult, taking about 6 hours each way along precariously steep boulders. Anyway you go, along with the permit, you'll need a compass, plenty of water, food and cold weather gear, as sudden thunderstorms and icy winds can come out of nowhere even in summer.

Khustain Nuruu Nature Reserve

The Khustain Nuruu Nature Reserve was established in 1993 to preserve Mongolia's wild takhi horses and the steppe environment in which they live. The takhi is probably the most recognised and successful symbol of Mongolia's diverse and unique wildlife. Also known as Przewalski's horse (named after the Pole who first took an interest in them), the takhi used to roam the countryside in great herds. In the 1960s they almost became extinct because poachers killed them for meat, and because development and livestock overgrazing reduced their fodder. In the early 1990s, with assistance from international environmental groups, many takhi were reintroduced into specially protected areas in the 90,000ha (222,300acre) Khustain Nuruu and in the south Gobi. About 200 now live in this park or in the wild.

The nature reserve is about 100km (62mi) south-west of Ulaan Baatar. It's easiest to start your trip to Khustain from Zuunmod, 40km (25mi) south of Ulaan Baatar. There are daily buses, minibuses and shared taxis to Zuunmod from Ulaan Baatar. You'll need a jeep to reach the reserve from Zuunmod.

Kharkhorin (Karakorum)

In 1220 Genghis Khan decided to build the capital city of his vast Mongolian empire at Karakorum. Building was completed by his son, Ogedai Khan, after Genghis' death, but Karakorum served as the capital for only 40 years before Kublai Khan moved it to what is now Beijing. Following the move, and the subsequent collapse of the Mongolian empire, Karakorum was abandoned and then later destroyed by hordes of Manchurian soldiers. Whatever was left was used to help build the Erdene Zuu monastery in the 16th century, which itself was badly destroyed during the Stalinist purges. The modern and dreary town of Kharkhorin was built on the same spot.

Erdene Zuu (Hundred Treasures) was the first centre of Lamaism in Mongolia. The monastery was started in 1586 but not entirely finished until 300 years later. It has between 60 and 100 temples, about 300 gers set up inside the walls and, at its height, up to 1000 monks in residence. Like Karakorum, the monastery was abandoned and then vandalised by invading Manchurians. All but 3 of the temples in Erdene Zuu were destroyed by Stalin's thugs and an unknown number of monks killed. The monastery remained closed until 1965 when it was permitted to reopen as a museum, but not as a place of worship. Only with the collapse of communism did the monastery become active again.

Today it retains much of its former glory. Enclosed in an immense walled compound, the 3 temples within are dedicated to the 3 stages of a Buddha's life: as a child, adolescent and adult. The main, central temple is called the Zuu of Buddha and has statues of Buddha as a child. Outside the monastery walls are 2 'turtle rocks'. Four of these once marked the boundaries of ancient Karakorum. More, ahem, stimulating is the phallic rock hidden in a small valley among the hills overlooking the monastery, about 30 minutes away on foot. According to local tradition, all women who visit the rock must have sex within 24 hours.

Kharkhorin is 370km (230mi) south-west of Ulaan Baatar. Between July and September there are flights between the cities several times a week. Year-round, buses make the 7-8 hour trip just as often

Khövsgöl Nuur

Try to imagine a 2760 sq km (1080 sq mi) alpine lake, with water so pure you can drink it. Then add dozens of 2000m (6560ft) mountains, thick pine forests and lush meadows with grazing yaks and horses, and you have a vague impression of Khövsgöl Nuur, Mongolia's top scenic heartstopper. This is the deepest lake in Central Asia, and the world's 14th largest source of fresh water. Situated along the border with Russia, the lake is sacred to local Mongolians, who refer to it as 'mother'. It's full of fish and the area is home to sheep, ibex, bear and moose, as well as over 200 species of birds. There are numerous caves around the lake, though they're hard to find without a guide. Three separate peoples live in the area: Darkhad Mongols, Buryats and Tsaatan.

An amazing 90 rivers flow into the lake, but only a single river flows out - the Egiin Gol, which ultimately reaches Lake Baikal in Siberia. Khövsgöl Nuur freezes in winter, allowing huge trucks carrying fuel to cross from Siberia. Visitors can kayak on the lake when it unfreezes, and hike or ride on horseback (or yakback) around it.

The southern boundary of Khövsgöl Nuur is about 775km (480mi) north-west of Ulaan Baatar and is reachable by occasional plane, bus or your own jeep. The best time to visit is in spring (around April and May), though. It's still very cold at this time and the lake may be frozen. The summer (July and August) is warmer but more crowded. Permits are required to visit the lake. They're available on the main road into Khövsgöl Nuur National Park, a few km before the southern entrance at the town of Khatgal

When to Go

The best time for travelling to Pakistan depends on which part of the country you intend to visit. Generally speaking, the southern parts of Pakistan including Sind, Baluchistan, Punjab and southern North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) are best visited in the cooler months between November and April. After that it gets uncomfortably hot. The northern areas like Azad Jammu Kashmir, and northern NWFP are best seen during May to October before the area becomes snowbound. The weather may be a little stormy during this time, but the mountain districts are usually still accessible.

Try and avoid Pakistan during Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting which usually occurs sometime during the months of December to early January. You may find yourself involuntarily joining in the fast because activity is kept to a minimum and food is hard to find during daylight hours.

Events

Nationwide celebrations include Ramadan, a month of sunrise-to-sunset fasting which changes dates every year (as the Islamic calendar differs from the Gregorian one); Eid-ul-Fitr, two to three days of feasting and goodwill that marks the end of Ramadan; Eid-ul-Azha, when animals are slaughtered and the meat shared between relatives and the needy; and Eid-Milad-un-Nabi, which celebrates Mohammad's birthday.

Attractions

Karachi

Pakistan's commercial centre and largest city is a sprawling place of bazaars, hi-tech electronic shops, scurf-infested older buildings and modish new hotels. Its sights are spread far and wide, so a taxi or rickshaw is necessary to travel between them.

A good place to start is the Quaid-i-Azam Mausoleum, a monument to Pakistan's founder Mohammed Ali Jinnah, which can be charitably described as distinctive. More impressive is the remarkable white-marbled Defence Housing Society Mosque. The single dome, claimed to be the largest of its kind in the world, will make your gum cleave to the roof of your mouth. Above the mosque is Honeymoon Lodge, birthplace of the Aga Khan.

Other sights include the Holy Trinity Cathedral and St Andrew's Church (both good examples of Anglo-Indian architecture), the city's zoo, and the Zoroastrian Towers of Silence, hills where the dead are traditionally exposed to vultures. South of the city is Clifton, a former British hangout and now an exclusive coastal corner for the local wealthy, the popular but rather drab Clifton Beach, and Manora Island, a less-crowded beach resort

Saddar, the city centre, is the main shopping area with thriving markets selling carpets, fur coats, leather jackets, snake-skin purses, silk scarves and the country's biggest range of handicrafts. It also has a number of food stalls and cheap restaurants and the majority of budget hotels. Nightlife in Karachi is an oxymoron.

If travel outside of Karachi is possible, then the archaeological site of Moenjodaro - once a city of an Indus Valley civilisation - and the Chaukundi tombs are well worth a visit.

Being the commercial and unofficial capital of Pakistan, flights in and out of Karachi are numerous but it's worth checking the ETA of your flight. Karachi is at the epicentre of political and ethnic tensions; a tension that is cranked up to knife edge proportions when combined with rival drug gangs, political assassinations, and terrorist bombings. If your flight touches down in the middle of the night, it would be wise to wait until sunrise before catching a taxi. For the same reason catching buses should be avoided for the foreseeable future. Buy a train ticket instead: trains run from Karachi to most major destinations

Lahore

The capital of Punjab is Pakistan's cultural, educational and artistic centre and easily the most visited city in the country. With its refuge of shady parks and gardens, its clash of Moghul and colonial architecture, and the exotic thrill of its congested streets and bazaars, it's not hard to see why. A collection of some of the city's attractions include: The Mall, an area of parks and buildings with a decidedly British bent; Lahore Museum, the best and biggest museum in the country; Kim's Gun, the cannon immortalised in Kipling's classic Kim; Aitchison College, an achingly beautiful public school that boasts Imran Khan as a former pupil; Lahore Fort, filled with stately palaces, halls and gardens; and the Old City, where a procession of rickshaws, pony carts, hawkers and veiled women fill the narrow lanes. The city has too many tombs, mosques and mausoleums to mention.

Lahore, 250km (155mi) south of Islamabad, is serviced by a plethora of international and domestic carriers. Long hauls overland can be done in the comfort of reliable, air conditioned buses, and smaller trips in the ubiquitous minibuses. Lahore lies on the main national line between Peshawar and Karachi and there are frequent direct services to all major destinations.

Around Punjab

Punjab is Pakistan's most fertile province, rich in both agriculture and ancient history. It's also one of the more stable of the country's regions, and travellers should have few of the problems that are faced further south and in the north.

The prosperous and hospitable town of Bahawalpur is a gentle introduction to the area. From here you can journey into Cholistan - a sandy wasteland dotted with nomadic communities and wind-swept forts - or the Lal Suhanra National Park, an important wildlife reserve. Further north is Harappa which is, after Moenjodaro, the second most important site of the Indus Valley civilisation.

Rawalpindi and the country's capital, Islamabad, are twin cities. The former is a patchwork of bustling bazaars while the latter is subdued, suburban and still being built (construction of the new capital didn't begin until 1961). From here you can visit Taxila, an archaeological repository, and Hasan Abdul, a place of holy pilgrimmage.

Bahawalpur is the most southerly town in the Punjab. There are daily flights from Islamabad about 555km (344mi) away. Most of the major destinations in the Punjab can be reached by bus, minibus, and train.

Quetta

The capital and only place of any size in the parched, barren province of Baluchistan may be light on ancient monuments but it's fit to bursting with a vigorous blend of peoples, wide tree-lined boulevards and sterling British architecture. Even more compelling, Quetta has a dramatic setting, with a mountainous backdrop on all sides. And unlike Karachi, most sights can be easily walked in a day. Don't miss the impressive Archaeological Museum of Baluchistan, the fort or the city's many colourful bazaars - great places to pick up marble, onyx and some of the finest carpets in Pakistan.

Just outside Quetta are the postcard-perfect Hanna Lake, plenty of picnic spots in Urak Valley, and the protected Hazarganji Chiltan National Park. Also near Quetta is the refreshingly cool hill station of Ziarat, which is both a restful destination and a good base for walking or mountaineering.

Quetta is a hefty distance from any other major town and a whopping 1000km (620mi) from Islamabad. The geographic obstacles, however, are not as worrying as the frontier mentality that thrives in the isolated conditions: general lawlessness, intertribal frictions and guns make for a volatile mixture. Quetta and the surrounding areas are safe, as are the main highways, provided you don't divert from the main roads or travel at night. Theoretically tourists are allowed to travel anywhere, but in practice local authorities cannot guarantee your safety. You can avoid some of the problems by flying into Quetta on a domestic flight. Failing that, air conditioned buses and trains can be taken for the long hauls, and minibuses for the shorter trips.

Azad Jammu & Kashmir

The main asset of the disputed territories of Jammu and Kashmir is their natural beauty - unfortunately, Pakistan's 16km (10mi) security zone means most of the truly scenic parts are now off limits. What's left is Neelum Valley, famous for fishing and trekking, Jhelum Valley, site of hill stations and more good walks, and forested highlands to the south. However, even these areas may be out of bounds, depending on the political climate at the time; make sure to check restrictions before you travel.

There are flights daily from Islamabad into Muzaffarabad and Rawalakot. Crossings into Muzaffarabad by land are restricted to Bararkot in Manshera, or Kohala in Murree. You can enter Rawalakot by bus or wagon from Rawalpindi. Other more direct routes are off limits to foreigners as they run close to the government research centre in the Punjab.

North-West Frontier Province

Impenetrable mountains, intractable people, and impossibly romantic cities are just some of the reasons why the North-Western Frontier Province is perhaps the most memorable of Pakistan's destinations.

Most visits begin in Peshawar, the rough and ready provincial capital. The highlight here is the Old City - a brawl of vendors selling everything from tribal jewellery to leather pistol holsters. Clopping horse-drawn tongas choke the streets which are thick with fearsome-looking Pashtuns - members of a vast tribal society - Afghans and Chitrali. A short distance outside Peshawar (but a million miles away) is the Smugglers Bazaar. It's definitely not what you'd expect: turbanned merchants in tents have been replaced by Westernised malls stocking the latest TVs, VCRs and refrigerators. There's even a shop flogging Marks & Spencer's merchandise. The fabled Khyber Pass, sprinkled with tiny army forts, is nearby.

North of Peshawar is the district of Swat, reckoned to have the loveliest scenery in Pakistan's northern valleys, and Chitral, a relatively unspoilt area of lush valleys, hot springs and great walks. Vertigo sufferers should steer clear of Indus Koshitan to the west, a land of colossal peaks and bottomless canyons with more good walks.

You can get domestic flights from Peshawar to any number of Pakistani destinations, as well as direct flights to Qatar, Tashkent, Abu Dhabi, Dubai, and Jeddah. Buses and minibuses go to and fro from Lahore and Rawalpindi all day, although the train is as cheap, and safer than, the buses. Peshawar is 150km (93mi) west of Islamabad.

The Northern Areas

The Northern Areas see few travellers, but those that brave the unruly terrain normally end up in Gilgit, the capital. There's not much in the city, save a bazaar that's full of Central Asian traders, but it's an excellent base for alpine walks, trout fishing and pottering about for historical ruins in the countryside. Baltistan, once an unexplored dead end, is now privvy to world-class mountaineering, fine treks and lovely scenery. More accessible and just as striking - check out the irrigated terraces rippling down the slopes - is the region of Hunza, Nagar & Gojal towards the Chinese border.

Flying into Gilgit is possible, if not uncomplicated. It's a fiendishly difficult balancing act between the weather, prior cancelled flights, waiting lists, timing, and a little bit of luck. Your star sign and karma have nothing to do with it; it just seems that way. Going by bus, minibus, or jeep, may be easier to arrange but wont give you those spectacular bird's eye views. Gilgit is nearly 330km (205mi) from Islamabad.